In this part of the report, how we crossed the Belarus-Poland border without a queue and practically passed the first European country in transit. How much is petrol, where you can drink coffee and eat sandwiches. And some sights of Lodz.

Day 2, continued. Belarus-Poland border

We decided to break into Europe by car from Belarus. Namely, in Brest, cross one of the most “slow”, according to many members of the forum, the Warsaw Bridge checkpoint connecting Belarus and Poland. BUT! The devil is not so terrible as it turns out to be painted. The Belarus-Poland border is the fastest to pass on Sunday evening. But even this "fastest" usually drags on for a couple of hours. They swindle terribly, deliberately infuriate, they take away meat-cheese-nicotine-rifles-mushroom (and, as luck would have it, this is exactly what we carry when we drive to Europe by car).

We were scared, and we drove up to Brest, this last city in Belarus, exactly in the evening of the last day off - we wanted to get to Poland as soon as possible (the hotel was booked in advance). They didn’t have time to eat the meat, they hid all the most forbidden things and drove up to the Warsaw Bridge ...

The Belarusian border was unexpectedly passed in 10 minutes. A stern border guard of 25 years old peered into my face for a long time and looked for 10 differences with a photo in my passport. I had to apologize for some cosmetic procedures performed on my own face after the passport was made. 10 differences were found, a stamp was placed and we were released from the former USSR. Now this part of our autotrip could be safely called a "trip to Poland", if this country was not planned exclusively as a transit country.

On the Polish border, the tail of the cars pleased with the final visibility. To be precise, there were three tails. One for EU cars, two for the rest. The EU tail on the Belarus-Poland border (as well as on any other border) moved faster and disappeared in half an hour. And - a miracle of miracles! - The Polish border guard waved us and rebuilt us from the “Russian” queue to the one where the starry sun should be present on the license plate of the car. They took our passports from us, asked how many liters of gasoline were filled in the car, for decency they asked us to open the trunk ... .. And that's it!

So we were afraid for nothing. And drugs and weapons could be carried out. But those who were not standing in the Euro-corridor were watched obviously longer than us. And tomorrow we have a whole day of traveling around Poland by car ... We are preparing fifth points and remembering the leisurely traffic on Polish roads in 2011.

Day 3. To Poland by car - impressions of the country

It's the third day of our summer road trip. Woke up in a hotel Hotel Mixbud(an ordinary hotel for a "spend the night", with good plumbing, the opportunity to buy breakfast, comfortable beds and excellent wi-fi). Wake up, pack up and go. The whole third day of the trip was planned to go and look at Poland from the car window.

Poland, with the exception of obvious tourist cities, is not very catchy. Neatly, there are many flowers in the yards of two-story houses. Lots of storks. A lot of cars. A few people. The country does not differ in strong originality - we noticed this five years ago.

The roads in this part of the Polish land are good (we can safely recommend them for starting a trip around Europe by car), but the abundance of settlements reduces the speed of driving. The surprise was that we were stopped by the border service to check documents, although we were already relatively far from the border.

We drive along the E30 (A2 or M1) to Warsaw. Although we do not need Warsaw, in fact. Gasoline prices in this part of Poland range from 4.44 to 4.57 złoty (about a euro). We drink coffee in Cafepunkt (60 ml espresso for PLN 4.5, all other coffee PLN 5.99 for 300 ml). There are even more cars in front of Warsaw, and we are dragging along at a speed of 50 km/h. The houses on the sides of the road are neat, periodic churches, but the view, by and large, does not stop at anything.

We drive through Warsaw quickly thanks to new interchanges, we never get out of the car and observe the outskirts of the city exclusively from the window. Stalinkas make Warsaw look like the Vyborg side of St. Petersburg, and modern glass, as expected, kills any rudiments of originality and completely depersonalizes an already not very beautiful city.

Our buttocks were a little tired, and we decided to let them warm up in Lodz. First, we continue to drive along the E30, which after Warsaw has become wide, fast and multinational. Having driven about 40 km from Warsaw, we drink tea with sandwiches in a large parking lot. There is a toilet, three sheds with benches and a water column. After another 10 km - gas station, parking and McDonald's. And then more. And further.

If your trip to Poland by car will pass this route, you will get real pleasure. Such roads as here, we have not seen anywhere else in Europe. This is a beautifully refurbished new autobahn, with a speed limit of 140 km/h. After the turn to Lodz and all the way to Germany, the track becomes paid, but we slipped through the free section.

We turned onto A1 and stopped in Lodz. We didn’t have time to see all the sights of Lodz, and we only managed to walk a couple of streets.

Attractions Lodz

The sights of Lodz for us are Piotrkowska Street. It was it that we passed completely, capturing only separate parts from the rest of the streets. Piotrkowska (also Googled as Petrovska or Piotrowski) is one of the longest shopping alleys not only in Poland, but throughout Europe. Lots of funny sculptures, an area with name street tiles, lots of cafes and shops. If you take pictures everywhere, you can get stuck for a couple of hours. And if you get here during the period of any festival, which is not uncommon here, you will get stuck for half a day.

Bench of Julian Tuvim at Petrkovskaya street, 104:
Avenue of Stars:
On the stars are the names of directors and filmmakers. The stars stretched from the intersection of Monyushka Street to the passage of Rubinshtein (houses 78-80).

Arthur Rubinstein's piano near house 78:
Monument to three manufacturers near house 32:
These are the famous Polish manufacturers of the early 20th century, Israel Poznański, Ludwik Gromann and Karl Scheibler, who contributed to the prosperity of Łódź.

Part of the pedestrian zone paved with name tiles:
Polish Lodz is a good city. A mixture of Kyiv and the Petrograd side in St. Petersburg. We ran, got caught in a downpour and drove on. On the clock - 16 hours, we still need to have lunch, take E 67 (S 8) to get to Wroclaw to find the missing sculpture in 2012 and come to Germany to spend the night at the campsite.

We looked into Wroclaw, found sculptures of people going into the ground and coming out of it, and rushed to the German country along E 40 (in Germany, route number 4). We drove into it already dark, on the way a couple of times again fell under local downpours and once even under hail the size of a walnut.

We spent the night at a campsite near Bautzen. But this is another part of the report - German.

All our posts about this trip around Europe by car:

- almost a "transit" part of the report, but after reading it, you will learn several important points about the trip to Belarus and what to see in Polotsk, where we spent the night.

Part two - Poland- you are now reading it

(part of the autotrip report in 2016)

A country in which there is nothing to do more than a couple of hours. But maybe that's just our opinion. Read this part of the report and decide for yourself!

8 days, 9 cities, mountains, gorges, villages and waterfalls. Pretty busy route. And prices in Switzerland in 2016.

Genoa, Pisa, Florence, Lucca, Cittadella and even the center of Padua. And a couple of hours of San Marino

Hoeschwangau, Neuschwanstein, Lindshorf, Dachau, Munich, Nuremberg and Rothenburg ob der Tauber.

Part eight, final -. What is interesting to see in Belarus by car in the summer

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01.02.19 26 477 24

Walked through the old cities and admired the mountains

In 2018, my friends and I took a vacation for the May holidays, got into the car and drove to Poland.

Marie Kotlyar

saves on travel

There we enjoyed the beauty of the mountains, walked along the cobbled streets of Krakow and bought food in a store with a funny name "Zhabka".

We covered 3500 km in 9 days. In the article I will tell you how much such a trip cost and how to organize it.

Expenses in Poland per week for one - 20 106 R

6250 R

Accommodation

6126 R

Automobile

4180 R

insurance

1250 R

Souvenirs

1200 R

Entertainment

600 R

Public transport

500 R

Route

My friend and I did not want to spend money on a plane and depend on public transport schedules, so we chose a car. When traveling by car, you can be free to choose places.

At first we were afraid of the distance: from Moscow to the nearest Polish city of Lublin - 1200 km. Up to this point, none of us had driven a car that far. But when it turned out that we would have two more replacement drivers in stock, we decided.

3500 km

we drove by car for 9 days trip

In Poland, we visited the cities of Lublin, Krakow, Zakopane, and at the end we even stopped in the Slovak city of Poprad. The route turned out to be optimal: we were not tired of the road and along the way looked at life in the country's provincial towns. Most of all we liked the Tatra Mountains.

On the way back to Moscow, we wanted to visit the Rzeszow and Lancut castles in the vicinity of the city of Rzeszow: they were on the way. But on the last day we realized that we were not in time, so we had to leave them for the next time. Perhaps, even at the planning stage, we should have distinguished the goal: mountains or castles. For 7 days it is difficult to see both. If you want to be in time everywhere, add 2 more days to the route.

A trip by car is good because you can see a lot of interesting things along the way. I like to observe the life of people in the provinces. When we drove through the Polish villages, I was surprised at the attitude of the Poles towards their property. In small Polish towns there are no abandoned lands and cottage settlements - only neat houses with trimmed bushes. Also, storks make their nests right on the lampposts - a wonderful sight.

Visa

You can enter Poland on a Schengen visa. We started preparing documents for a Polish visa a month before departure. Together with the main package of documents for traveling by car, it was necessary to provide:

1. Driver license.
2. Vehicle registration certificate.
3. Green card - an international insurance policy for a car.
4. Route plan with dates and stops. We designed it with a table: we simply wrote where and when we plan to go.

All documents must be photocopied and the plan printed. Reso international insurance for the car cost us 3000 R.

We wanted to apply for a visa at the Polish consulate in Moscow. It turned out that the registration was already closed: it is better to submit documents 1.5 months in advance or earlier. Then we started calling the Poland visa center. The operator at the hotline puzzled us greatly: all visa centers temporarily suspended work. I never found out the reason, but now they are working again.

As a result, I made an Italian Schengen: in 4 months I was just about to go to Italy. Friends said that Italians rarely refuse to issue a visa. I paid 35 € for a visa (2625 R), for the services of a visa center - 29.5 € (2210 R). A visa for six months cost me 64.5 € (4835 R), it was done in 3 working days.

64,5 €

I paid for a Schengen visa for six months

When you travel by car abroad, border guards put a mark in your passport in the country of first entry. In our case it was Poland. There are no checkpoints on the borders of the EU countries, which means there is no evidence that we were not in Italy. But in theory, such a journey can be risky: you never know how it will affect the issuance of a new visa. It is better to follow the rules and, if possible, apply for a visa of the country where you are going to spend more days.

Money

Belarus and Poland have their own national currencies - the euro is not accepted. The Belarusian ruble (Br) costs 31.12 R, the Polish zloty (zł) - 18.12 R.

In Belarus, we did not buy currency, because we did not stop anywhere. Gasoline was paid by card. In Poland, we changed cash, rarely paid with a card. It is more convenient for me to plan expenses and monitor the budget when the money is on hand.

There are exchangers in shopping centers and on the streets of the city. We exchanged rubles for euros in Russia, and on arrival we bought zlotys. But there are exchange offices where even rubles are exchanged for zlotys. The course is profitable everywhere, we did not notice a huge difference. Zloty cost us 18.5 R. We did not withdraw money from ATMs, but there are many of them in cities. Friends warned that there may be a commission in ATMs, the percentage depends on the bank.

Road

to Poland. Our journey started at 6 am in Moscow and ran through Belarus. It was 1100 km to the border. On the way, we planned to spend the night in the Polish city of Lublin, 100 km from the border. It was the right decision: on the way, muscles become very numb, eyes get tired and I want to sleep.

There are 6 customs points on the border between Poland and Belarus. The closest to Lublin are Brest and Domachevo. There are long queues in Brest, so we decided to go through Domachevo.

We planned to cross the border in 2-3 hours. In my experience, you can only go faster in the off-season: autumn or early spring. Later we learned that it is possible to reserve a place at the border in Brest. The service costs 25 Br (775 R). Time is booked 90 days or a maximum of 3 hours before arrival at the border.

If the Belarusian border can be passed without a queue, then you still have to stand on the Polish one. Then we did not spend money on booking, but if we went now, I would still reserve a place in the queue at the Brest checkpoint.

After entering Poland, the road became two times narrower and fog descended. Deer, foxes and hares came out of the forest to the roadside: all the way we drove at a speed of 60 km / h or less. We were exhausted, and we wanted to sleep - the last 50 kilometers drove like zombies.

In general, the road from Moscow to Poland can take up to 24 hours, depending on how long you stand at the border. We drove for 19 hours.

By Poland. We spent the night in Lublin and in the morning immediately went to Krakow. On the shortest path to it was 283 km.

What to see in Poland

Krakow- the former capital of Poland. We walked around the center: we looked at the market square and the Jewish quarter, and then went to the embankment. It is there that all the main entertainments are: a free open-air cinema, frisbee, dancing, attractions, and most importantly - a view of the Wawel Castle

Krakow reminded me of St. Petersburg: there are gray buildings and a similar atmosphere. But the city center is undeniably beautiful.

Auschwitz. We stopped by Auschwitz to visit the Auschwitz-Birkenau Museum. These are former German concentration camps.

In Auschwitz, we saw a line of one and a half kilometers and realized that we did not have time to get there: further on the schedule was a trip to Zakopane. It was embarrassing.

We have not yet guessed that it is worth buying tickets in advance on the website of the museum complex. From May 1 to October 31, you can enter the territory only with a guided tour. An excursion in a group accompanied by a guide costs 50 zł (900 R) for adults and 45 zł (810 R) for students.

Zakopane is a city and the ski resort of the same name in Poland at the foot of the Tatras. In winter, everyone comes here to ski or snowboard. The ski season starts in November and ends in March-April. There is no single tariff for ski passes, the price ranges from 14 € (1050 R) to 32 € (2400 R) per day, depending on the ski area.

In my opinion, the city is ordinary and there is nothing to see there. We came there to get into the Tatra National Park, which is located in the suburbs of Zakopane.

Tatra National Park. Minibuses go from Zakopane to the Tatra Park for 12 zł (220 R). They can be found by the Morskie Oko sign on the windshield - this is the name of a popular mountain lake among tourists. The journey from Zakopane by minibus will take 20-30 minutes, by car - 10-20 minutes. The entrance ticket costs 10 zł (180 R) and is paid at the box office at the entrance to the park.

10 zł

there is a ticket to the Tatra National Park

We wanted to feel the atmosphere of the mountains, walk on them and enjoy the views. Three days were planned for this. In the guest house we were given a book with a guide to Zakopane and a map of trekking routes in the Tatras. You can also get it at the tourist information centers. There is a short guide to Zakopane on the Internet.

According to travelers on the forums, the most popular trekking route in the Tatras is the Path of the Eagle. My companions wanted to pass it, but I read several articles and did not dare: judging by the reviews, we did not have the proper preparation. For example, the Phototravel website says that this is the most difficult route in the Tatras. It's definitely not worth going there without equipment.

The most popular tourist spots are Kasprowy Wierch Peak and Morskie Oko Lake. You can walk to the top in 3 hours or take a cable car. The cable car costs 63 zł (1130 R) in both directions and 48 zł (860 R) in one direction. Those who bought a ticket in advance in the online store of the Polish Cable Cars are allowed out of turn. The cable car can be reached by minibus, which runs from the station, for 2 zł (36 R).

63 zł

worth a ride on the cable car to the top of Kasprowy Wierch and back

We wanted to walk along the trekking trails. There are dozens of them - you can get to any place in the park. The trails are rocky and steep. I was in sneakers and knocked all my feet on the stones, and also slipped a couple of times. On one of the trails we almost got lost: all the paths are similar.

First of all, we went to Morskie Oko lake. There were hundreds of people there - my friends and I got lost and instead of walking we were looking for each other for an hour and a half. Morskoye Oko did not impress me: it looks like all mountain lakes.

Therefore, we went to the second lake with the ominous name Czarny-Stav-pod-Rysy. Before him had to climb up the rocks and snow. The lake struck us with its beauty: there was snow around, snow blocks floated in the water, mountains were reflected on the surface. Even from there you could see the Sea Eye, and from a height it looked much more beautiful than up close.

There are caves on top of one of the Tatra rocks. The climb is equipped with chains that you can stick to, but sometimes it was more convenient to lean on trekking poles. While we climbed to the rocks, I felt fear and adrenaline at the same time. In addition to us, several middle-aged women and even one grandmother climbed there. I was very surprised: it's high and dangerous, there is no insurance, but she still dared.

Poprad. 68 km from Zakopane, not far from the Slovak city of Poprad, there is an ancient castle Spissky Grad. We decided to give our feet a rest from the mountains and went to see it. At the ticket office, they introduced themselves as students from Russia, who allegedly forgot their student ID - a ticket to the castle cost 6 € (450 R). A regular adult ticket cost 8 € (600 R).

The castle looks nice from the road, but the inside is nothing special. After Spissky Castle, we stopped for lunch in the Slovak Poprad and were horrified by the dull buildings of the same type of houses. There is nothing interesting and beautiful there. Local fast food for 1 € is worse than nothing: tasteless. In general, we did not like Slovakia.

Housing

Housing in Poland is inexpensive: a hostel will cost 500 R, a hotel in the mountains - 1200 R per night. We chose rooms on Booking with a filter at the lowest price. In order not to spoil your vacation, read the reviews and looked at the conditions on the photo.

1200 R

worth a night in a Polish hotel in the mountains

Lublin. To relax after a long journey, we booked a simple hostel in the city center. A night at the Królewska hostel cost 53 zł (960 R) for two, that is, 26.5 zł (480 R) per person. We had separate double rooms with our own cozy balcony.

The bathroom was shared, and we prepared for discomfort. But the shower "exceeded" all expectations: the window from the shower room looked directly at the windows of the same building. There was also no hot water, and the staff did not speak English.

Room with a double bed, a locker and a balcony. Small and cozy. Photo: Booking
We were told that the tower of one of the castles would be visible from the window. But you can see it only from the reception window. Photo: Booking

In Krakow we stayed at the Benedykta hostel, where we booked a bed in a six-bed shared room for men and women.

The hostel is located five minutes from the main square of Krakow. One night cost me and my friend 25 zł (450 R) per person. The guys were more fortunate: for the same money they were settled in a room for three.

Free breakfast was included in the price. Things can be left in the locker, the keys were given at the reception. In general, we liked the accommodation: it was clean and comfortable.

Mountain resort Zakopane. In the Tatras, we decided to rent a room in a guest house two kilometers from Zakopane, in the village of Zirla. The choice fell on Willa Koisowka. For 4 nights I paid 250 zł (4500 R). For this money, we got a view of the mountains, our own shower and toilet, a large comfortable bed. For 8 zł (140 R) breakfast was served: cheeses, cereals, yogurts, sandwiches and toasts.

250 zł

I paid for 4 nights in a guest house near the mountain resort of Zakopane

When we arrived at the villa, the gate was closed. We couldn't figure out how to call the administrator. At first they tried to find a bell, a valve, then they shouted, knocked on the gate, but nothing worked. I had to climb over the fence and knock on the house itself. A Russian-speaking girl came to us and showed a call. It turns out that he was at the gate - however, barely noticeable.

After the hostels, it was great to check into a villa - a spacious furnished room for two with a private balcony.

Before leaving we were asked to fill out a receipt and pay the city environmental tax. It is calculated at the rate of 2 zł per day in Zakopane. It took us 5 days - we paid 10 zł (180 R).

Our room at Willa Koisowka. Cozy, even has its own desk. I love to write, so it came in handy. Photo: Booking
Willa Koisowka is a large country house with several living rooms. Photo: Booking

parking

In Poland, there are paid and free parking lots. On weekdays, in the center of cities and nearby areas, parking is paid, on the outskirts - for free. The cost depends on the time. Leaving the car for 20 minutes costs 1 zł (18 R), for an hour - 3 zł (54 R), 3 hours - 10.6 zł (190 R). You can look for free parking at shopping centers and near gas stations, but we have not tried.

In the center you can park for free on weekends and on weekdays from 20:00 to 10:00. For example, we arrived in Krakow at 17:00 and left the car until 9:00. Paid only for three hours. It cost 11 zł (200 R).

1 zł

there is a twenty-minute parking in the city center from 10:00 to 20:00

In large cities, such as Krakow and Lublin, parking is paid at parking meters. They accept coins in denominations of 1, 2 and 5 zlotys and do not give change. The old parking meters do not accept cards, and the new ones even have a paypass. You can check the possibility of cashless payment and learn how to pay for parking on the Krakow city infrastructure website.

In small towns like Zakopane you can meet parking attendants. They ask when you plan to return, take the money and give a check. In Zakopane, the parking attendant charges 2 zł (36 R) per hour and a maximum of 7 zł (130 R) even if you leave the car for the whole day. Exceptions are tourist places like the Tatra National Park. There, the cost of parking is worth asking the valet. The valet in the village of Kire took 10 zł (180 R) from us at a single rate without taking into account time.

90% of hostels in the center of Krakow do not have their own parking, so we left the car on the street. In Lublin, most hostels have parking, ours was even monitored by a security guard. But we never used it: we arrived at night, we didn’t have the strength to look for it, so we parked right in the center. I didn’t have to pay: at night parking was also free.

In Zakopane, we planned to walk and specifically looked for accommodation with parking. If we went to the city, we parked at the shops for free. Once we stopped in the center for an hour for 2 zł (36 R).

Paid parking zones in Krakow. I read about a detailed description of zones with streets on the city infrastructure website

Restaurants

The first place among all Polish dishes I give to soups. A standard serving of 400 ml costs about 5 zł (90 R). The most popular of the traditional ones are borscht and zhurek. Borscht is similar to Russian, but without potatoes and cabbage. Instead, the Poles add spices, a lot of garlic and dumplings. If you take without dumplings, the soup will cost 2 zł (36 R) cheaper.

Zurek is a sourdough soup made from water, flour, garlic and rye bread. Potatoes, sausages and greens are added to it. To taste, it remotely resembles pickle. All soups have a bright taste: borsch is spicy due to garlic and spices, and zhurek is hearty and unusual thanks to sourdough on rye bread. Soups were prepared differently in every Polish cafe.

Hot dishes include sausages and bigos - a dish with sausages or meat. Bigos costs from 24 zł (430 R) to 38 zł (680 R). For reasons I don't understand, this is a very expensive second course, although it tastes like a regular hodgepodge.

On average, sausages cost 17 zł (310 R) for 250 grams. In Zakopane, we ordered a meat board of sausages, barbecue and a local salad of carrots, beets and sauerkraut for three. It cost 79 zł (1430 R), but we couldn't even finish our meal - we took it with us on the road.

If you ask any waiter what to eat from traditional dishes, he will first say: pierogi. The Poles present this dish as a must for lunch or dinner. Pies - with an emphasis on "o" - are similar to dumplings, only fresh and dry. They cost 10-12 zł (180-220 R) for a serving of several pieces. They are boiled or fried. I tried boiled but didn't like it. The guys ate boiled every time and were satisfied.

Almost any dish is served with plyacki - potato pancakes. The Poles love to add them as a main side dish to hot dishes. They taste delicious at first, especially when seasoned with gravy or sauce. But then they get bored: in all the cafes that we were, dances had the same taste.

I don't like touristy places and try to eat in cafes away from the center. So you can find really tasty national food and see what the Poles take. In such cafes, the bill is usually 10-15 zł (180-270 R) lower than in the city center.

At lunchtime, we went to cafes at random and discovered something new and interesting. For example, after a walk in the Tatras, we drove from the village of Kire in the opposite direction from Zakopane. Found along the way restaurant U Sliwy. Only Poles sat in the hall, and the waitresses were dressed in national costumes. The food at the restaurant was delicious and the portions were large. I took zhurek soup, a half-head-sized boar's knee - Polish pork knuckle - and beer. Such a dinner cost me 30 zł (540 R).

30 zł

I paid for a two-course lunch with beer at U Sliwy

On average, lunch or dinner cost 27 zł (490 R) per person. After the mountains, when we wanted to eat everything at once and in large quantities, we ate for 38 zł (680 R). We usually only have one meal a day.

Once we tried to eat at the Polish McDonald's. It is vastly different from Russian: the food there is more lean and with arugula. Instead of ordinary buns - rye.

Width="1000" height="667" class="" style="max-width: 1000px; height: auto"> Burger, fries, sauce and drink will cost 25 zł (450 Р )

For breakfast, you can go to any Polish bakery: local rolls are delicious. If you take a croissant, it will be fresh, lush, large and with a delicious filling. The rest of the pastries are not inferior in size and characteristics. On average, everything costs 12-14 zł (220-250 R).

Local beer is no different from Russian. Mostly light, without any distinctive qualities. But the traditional tincture "Soplitsa" is an unusual drink that looks like a liquor. I liked plum: it is light and pleasant. I brought her home. In the Soplitsa supermarket it costs about 45 zł (810 R).

The shops

We usually went to the mountains, so we bought food for breakfast and lunch in supermarkets. The most popular stores in Poland are Biedronka and Lidl. Usually they work from 6:00 to 21:00-22:00, closed on Sundays. It is better to check the exact schedule on the websites.

13 zł

I spent on vacuum-packed oscypek cheese

When we arrived in Zakopane on Sunday, we drove around the city to buy food: everything was closed. On the third circle they found a supermarket Zabka, in Russian - "Zhabka". He worked from 6:00 to 23:00 even on weekends and holidays. Because of this, the prices for everything were higher by 2-3 zł (36-54 R). I had to stand in line for half an hour, but I didn’t have to choose. Before the trip, I recommend checking the opening hours of the shops and marking them on the map so that you don’t have to frantically look for them on the trip.

Of the sweets in Poland, katarzynki gingerbread is popular. They are mostly made for Christmas according to a traditional recipe, but we managed to find them in Bidronk. They really taste spicy, I even brought them as a souvenir.

In the Tatras we tried the Polish sheep's cheese oscypek. It was prepared right in front of us. For 4 zł (72 R) we were given smoked and fresh cheeses for testing.

To bring oscypek as a souvenir, you need to look for it on the shelves of supermarkets in vacuum packaging, otherwise it will deteriorate, and customs will not let it through without packaging. I found it for 13 zł (230 R) in "Bidronka". Smoked can be taken in the village, where there are tents along the road at every turn. A large piece of smoked oscypek is sold for 5 zł (90 R).

Here are the approximate prices for groceries in supermarkets in Poland:

• oscypek cheese - 13 zł (230 R);
• local sweets and gingerbread - 8-10 zł (140-180 R);
• cheeses - 6-8 zł (110-140 R);
• sausages - 4-8 zł (72-140 R);
• chocolates - 2.5 zł (45 R);
• bananas - 2 zł (36 R);
• dairy products - 1.5-2 zł (27-36 R);
• bread and buns - 0.2-2 zł (4-36 R).

What to bring

On the trip, I took a sleep mask with me to sleep in the car. We also stocked up on food and water so as not to waste time on major snack stops.

For walks in the mountains, we bought used trekking poles on Yulia. Two pairs of sticks cost 1000 R, and new ones in Decathlon cost an average of 399 R apiece. With sticks, the load from the legs is evenly distributed over the body - it is easier to climb and descend. They also serve as a good support: even if the foot slips, you can keep your balance.

798 R

costs an average of a pair of trekking poles at Decathlon

Just in case, the guys and I decided to take sunscreen and elastic bandages. It turned out that these are mandatory things when walking in the mountains. Even in May the sun bakes - you can get badly burned. An elastic bandage will come in handy if your knees hurt from exertion.

For trekking, you will need a comfortable backpack and shoes in which you can safely walk on stones and not slip on the snow. We did not take care of this in advance and walked in sneakers in the Tatras. Feet ached from stones for several days.

RememberWe worked on the material

Author - Marie Kotlyar, editor - Anastasia Osyan, production editor - Marina Safonova, photo editor - Maxim Koposov, information designer - Zhenya Sofronov, responsible officer - Anna Lesnykh, proofreader - Daria Semenova, layout designer - Evgenia Izotova

Polish Mix: 2-Week Itinerary from Krakow to Gdansk

Castles, deserts, ports, lighthouses, caves, lakes - this journey through the south and north of Poland turned out to be a bright cocktail of opposites that can completely change the impression of this country!

Travels are different, as well as dishes: some are fresh, others are spicy, others are exotic. Our recipe is unique: a friendly company, changing plans on the fly, a desire for new experiences and, of course, a colorful country.

It all started with the fact that we decided to visit friends, and at the same time diversify our impressions. The plans were grandiose - to drive along the entire Baltic coast of Poland by car, visiting a dozen lighthouses, sunbathe on the beaches, open up new horizons, then see Warsaw and go home rested. But plans tend to change without the knowledge of their owners. Therefore, upon arrival to friends, it was decided to go not to the north, but to the south - to Krakow. This idea was unanimously approved, and we hit the road by car.

South. Beskids. Krakow

From up to a few hours drive, and here we are. We rented an apartment through airbnb and, having parked the car, went on foot to the old city. The entire historical center is surrounded by a neat park with cycle paths and places to relax in the shade of trees. We entered the city from the side of Shchepanska Square near the Palace of Arts, and right away, we got to a light show - many fountains were illuminated and created a festive atmosphere. After admiring the luminous jets, we headed to the heart of the Old Town - Rynok Square.

1 /1

The same city can be completely different depending on the time of day. To admire all its beauties in the daytime, we recommend on an educational excursion. Krakow greeted us with yellow lights of lanterns in the twilight that descended on the city, the sounds of a jazz orchestra in the Main Market, the clatter of hooves and the creak of carriages from the carriages. A discordant crowd of tourists slowly moved through the streets, flowing from one brightly lit building to another. We also followed their example and dived into the Cloth Rows - the central structure of the square. This historical building was transformed and completed several times under different rulers, but it always had one purpose - trade. And now here they sell souvenirs and handicrafts, from leather bags to amber jewelry. The variety is such that your head is spinning and you want to buy everything. Coming outside, St. Mary's Church with towers will immediately appear before your eyes, which at night looks like an old castle. The square is full of cafes and restaurants where you should definitely try zhurek or pies (that is, dumplings and some delicious dessert). This is how we spent the whole evening, walking through the narrow streets of the old city and looking at old houses.

On the second day, we went back to the old city, but from the north side, where the Barbican is located, which once served as a defensive structure. It was connected to the city by a bridge, now there is a branch of the historical museum. We entered the city through the northern gate and headed to the center. During the day, the Market Square looked completely different: the fair, spread over almost the entire territory, noise, music from all the cafes. We hurried to look inside St. Mary's Church: there is a separate entrance for tourists, a separate one for parishioners. The temple is crowded, but not noisy, there is a lot of air inside - this effect is created by high vaults, the huge central nave is painted like a starry sky - golden patterns are on a dark blue background, light pours through high windows, illuminating all the splendor and splendor. If you wait, you can see how a huge altar of carved wood is opened. The church is impressive, but you should definitely look at it from the other side.

We climb the steep steps of the City Hall, at the same time you can see the exposition of old clothes, which is exhibited on one of the floors (the City Hall is a branch of the Krakow Historical Museum). As such, there is no observation deck, just windows are open on the top floor, but the views are still beautiful. The entire Market Square and the church are in full view, the domes are basilicas, and below the cafe umbrellas and fair tents look like a mosaic. Wawel Castle is visible in the distance, just right for us there. And you can learn in detail about all the exhibitions, opening hours and addresses of the departments of the Historical Museum of Krakow.

1 /1

It takes about 10-15 minutes to walk to the Royal Castle from the Market Square along the Grodska pedestrian street, but we didn’t want to rush, because at every step we came across some sights - for example, the Church of St. Andrew the First-Called - or just beautiful historical buildings. The castle itself is a whole architectural complex, which includes about two dozen buildings, but the main ones, of course, are the Royal Palace and the Cathedral of Saints Stanislav and Wenceslas, over the entrance to which huge bones hang, they say that a mammoth. Entrance to the territory of the castle and the cathedral is free, and you need to purchase a ticket to enter the interior, where various exhibitions are located. Wawel Castle stands on the hill of the same name on the banks of the Vistula and offers a beautiful view of the modern part of the city and the river. By the way, going down, you can ride on a cruise boat along the river with a sightseeing tour, and this will allow you to look at the city from a different angle.

It was not by chance that we ended up in Krakow and specifically in Wawel, but because this is the first of 16 castles in the chain of defensive structures. The so-called Way of the Eagle's Nests is a route passing through the voivodships of Lesser Poland and Selesia. King Casimir III the Great built these castles to protect borders and trade routes. And they got such a bizarre name because of their location on the hills and rocks, like eagles' nests. In order not to go astray and not miss a single castle, we used the site and, having examined the first castle, without wasting time, went to the next one.

You can learn all the secrets and legends of Krakow at: why the dragon became a symbol of the city, what you should definitely try from local food, and how women were punished in the Middle Ages. Find all the answers to your questions there!

Castle Kozhkiv

The castle is located 13 kilometers from Krakow near the small village of Kozhkiv. It was erected in the 14th century, restored, and today it is used as a place of celebrations. Weddings and various events are held in numerous halls. On our arrival, preparations for the wedding were in full swing, and one of the halls with old tapestries turned into a banquet hall.

1 /3

Inside, in many halls, the walls are not plastered, but bare brickwork is left and decorated with animal horns. The place is very colorful, but the castle may be closed during celebrations. You can take 1-1.15 to Kozhkevsky Castle and that will be enough.

Ojcovo National Park and Ojcovo Castle

We arrived at the next castle, more precisely, at its ruins, in the afternoon. The car was left in the parking lot, next to the ticket office and the information center, where they will give you a map and tell you the route.

1 /1

The Oytsovsky castle itself is located on a high rock and most of it is destroyed. The gates and a couple of towers have survived to this day in good condition, the rest is only in the form of foundations and ditches, but the view from the rock opens up wonderfully to the emerald hills and the valley. There are several routes in the national park that differ in duration and difficulty. Walking along the paved road, you meet rocks of amazing shape, as if a shark's fin or a knife edge grows out of the ground, who has any associations with these bizarre sculptures of nature. The most famous rock is the Mace of Hercules, a 25 meter high rock formation surrounded by forest. The entrance to the trail through a rocky canyon is a narrow entrance opening into an emerald valley. A great place to breathe in the cleanest air and move forward.

1 /1

There are caves in the park, but we didn’t go down there, the temperature there is not higher than 16 degrees, and after a hot day and an active hike without warm clothes in them, we risked getting sick. But we went to a high observation deck, from where you can see the entire park. It is worth spending 5-6 hours on the Oytsovsky Castle and the park to take a leisurely walk, and if you go down to the caves, it is better to leave a separate day for it.

Rabshtyn Castle

In the evening we reached the town of Olkusz, which is 45 kilometers from Krakow. Nearby was the village of Rabshtyn with a castle, following in our route. We examined the ruins of the castle, which have been partially restored.

1 /2

The gate tower is in good condition, on the information plates they read that there is a small museum inside and various historical festivals are held. We decided to stay somewhere nearby for the night. It turned out that local residents rent their homes to tourists at a low price. We settled on the second floor of a private house right under the castle, and the ruins were visible from the courtyard.

I was awakened by mosquitoes, annoyingly buzzing over my ear, I could no longer sleep and decided to go for a walk. Early in the morning, the time before dawn is quiet, quiet, I left the house and walked along the paved path. The village stands in a lowland around a mountain and a forest, only a small clearing and a pasture near the castle. I went up to the walls, you can see how the fog rises from the cold grass, like a ghost that is afraid of the light.

1 /3

The distant mountains are clearly visible from the hill, and now the first rays of the sun, at first timidly, insinuatingly, shine on the castle, on the forest, on the village, on the clearing. Then, higher and higher, the orange disk of the sun rises above the treetops, the rays become brighter, the white walls of the castle seem to wake up from sleep, the dew glistens on the fresh grass, the fog rises over the forest, evaporates and the mysterious haze disappears. I have never met the dawn in the mountains, it was so simple and fabulous at the same time that I did not regret the early awakening at all.

Smolensk

We arrived in Smolensk for dinner and immediately went to the castle. The whole territory is green and it was pleasant to walk, although the day was hot. More recently, Smolensk was in decline, but now it is being restored and you can walk along the massive walls of the fortress and look at the surroundings from a height, like other fortifications on the way of the Eagle's Nests, it is located on a high hill. We go up the stone stairs to the tower, it is likely that it used to be a sentinel. The view from the tower in all directions - the castle dominates the plains and small hills, the fields, like patchwork clothes, spread around and only in the distance are the foothills covered with forest.

There is a deep well in the courtyard of the castle, and dungeons on the opposite side. At one time, Smolensk was an impregnable fortification, but now it has become an interesting place with rich history and lush nature. 2-2.5 hours are enough for a visit and excursion.

Ogrodzenets

Our last stop on the Way of Eagle's Nests was Ogrodzenets in the town of Podzamche. We enjoyed spending half a day in this wonderful place and were satisfied. Moreover, an amusement park is organized nearby, where neither children nor adults will be bored. The castle is very beautiful, despite its dilapidated state, its snow-white towers and massive walls give the impression of a fabulous town.

1 /2

Currently, work is underway to reconstruct it. But tourists are allowed inside, the entrance is paid, the price also includes a visit to the tower with an exposition of instruments of torture. The structure is located on a hill and, as it were, grows out of the rocks. You can walk for a long time along narrow gloomy corridors with loophole windows, climb galleries, climb towers. And here it is worth lingering and admiring the scenery. The castle is surrounded by a defensive wall, which in one place smoothly flows into the rocks. The whole area is in soft grass, where you can lie and relax after the tour. After walking around the castle and its surroundings, we headed to the amusement park. And here everyone chooses what they want: an adrenaline park in the trees, and an educational theme park Entertaining physics, where you can feel the influence of its laws on different equipment, a toboggan track like for a bobsleigh, but not with such sharp turns, and ghost dungeon.

1 /1

For children there is a miniature park and attractions. You can choose entertainment and events, see prices on the website. Festivals and knightly tournaments are held in Ogrodzieniec, so you can also plan interesting historical leisure. So it won't be boring. We moved home in the late afternoon and only by midnight were we in place.

North. Baltic. Gdansk

A couple of days of respite and we move to the North. Here my soul wanted to turn around to the fullest, and visit the Curonian Spit, and Hel, and in general all, all the lighthouses along the coast. But it wasn’t there - there were only four days left and I had to choose the most interesting and compactly located. The route was as follows: Gdansk-Sopot-Hel-Slavinski National Park.

All motorways are in excellent condition and free of charge, and new motorways are under construction all along the way north. Leaving the suburbs of Warsaw, we got to the evening. We parked at the historical center, after 6 pm parking is free. After walking literally a hundred meters, we came to the pedestrian street Dlugu, on it and the parallel Pivnaya Street a lot of sights are concentrated, which makes the walk rich. Immediately admire the fantasy with which the facades and gables of the houses are decorated. The impression is that these are gingerbread houses with sugar icing at Christmas lined up in a festive window and are waiting to be selected and put in a basket.

1 /2

The splendor of architecture is due to the fact that the city was a rich and important seaport and from the middle of the 14th century it was a member of the Hanseatic League, uniting more than 300 cities of the Baltic. It was inhabited by merchants and merchants who competed in the luxury and beauty of the design of their houses - you look and you will not find two identical ones. Here, dragons on the roofs, and horses, and drainpipes in the form of fish, and statues, like in a museum, adorn the facade of the house. An excellent view of the evenly lined streets and the bay opens from the Town Hall, which is located on Dlugy Targ, as well as from the bell tower of the Church of the Virgin Mary. Along the same streets you can go through the Green Gates to the embankment.

1 /3

In the evening, the city is dressed in bright lights, creating a particularly cozy atmosphere, and all this is reflected in the slow Vistula. All cafes and restaurants invite you to drop in and try the delicious fish dishes of national cuisine. That evening we just walked and admired the views of the city. For a greater impression, you can climb in the cabin of the Ferris wheel, which is on Warehouse Island, near the Maritime Museum. But we were very tired and went to sleep.

We rented a house for one night with parking for 100 zlotys (less than 25 euros) in a new district of Gdansk and were very satisfied. In the morning we again returned to the old city, but already purposefully walked to the embankment. There, at the old Crane, the port crane and part-time city gates, we tried delicious smoked sheep's cheese with cranberry jam. This combination gives a very piquant taste and you want to gobble up a dozen of these curds. To complete the picture, we decided to ride on a pirate galleon that stood at the pier along the Vistula to the mouth.

1 /2

The cost of the tour is PLN 40 per person (less than 10 euros). There is a guide on board who speaks Russian quite well, but inside the cafe. My husband and I wanted to have a bite to eat and we ordered Polish borscht. I knew that this was not Ukrainian borscht, but I didn’t expect such a deception: four dumplings dangled in a burgundy water - and that’s the whole dish. The galleon slowly sailed along the docks and port shipyards, the guide told the history of Gdansk along the way. The most beautiful views at the very mouth of the sea.

Having examined Gdansk from the water, we went to the Royal Oliwa Park. This is a magnificent botanical park with the abbey palace and the Oliwa Cathedral. On a hot day, it was nice to walk in the shade of trees and admire the well-groomed flower beds. There are several small reservoirs in the park connected by a cascade of waterfalls. Concerts are held in the summertime - we caught one of these, the orchestra performed Chopin's works on the open stage. Many cozy and secluded corners of the park are conducive to relaxation on the lawn or on a bench. Ducks and swans swim in the ponds, shady alleys invite you to take a walk, and if you have enough time, then you should definitely spend half a day here.

1 /2

Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia - the famous Tricity in the Baltic. And we could not ignore the beautiful Sopot. It is not as lush as Gdansk, but on the contrary, it is somehow relaxed, resort-like, but no less interesting. We only had half a day for it, so I’ll write what I managed to see on the run. There are many cafes and bars on the main pedestrian street of the Heroes of Monte Cassino, but you can see the most interesting when you walk towards the embankment. The Crooked House is built there, incredible, it seems, dancing to a cheerful melody. You look and do not believe that this is possible to build. Walls and corners do not want to obey strict geometry, and jump out of the boundaries of straight lines, it seems that you are looking at a reflection in a crooked mirror. Inside, nothing betrays its “crookedness”, but all the lines are smooth, in some ways they even resemble the architecture of Gaudi. Closer to the sea is a lighthouse that adorns the city landscape. It is not active, but colorful, also due to the fact that it has a square shape at the base, unlike conventional cylindrical lighthouses.

Polish Mix: 2-Week Itinerary from Krakow to Gdansk

Castles, deserts, ports, lighthouses, caves, lakes - this journey through the south and north of Poland turned out to be a bright cocktail of opposites that can completely change the impression of this country!

Travels are different, as well as dishes: some are fresh, others are spicy, others are exotic. Our recipe is unique: a friendly company, changing plans on the fly, a desire for new experiences and, of course, a colorful country.

It all started with the fact that we decided to visit friends, and at the same time diversify our impressions. The plans were grandiose - to drive along the entire Baltic coast of Poland by car, visiting a dozen lighthouses, sunbathe on the beaches, open up new horizons, then see Warsaw and go home rested. But plans tend to change without the knowledge of their owners. Therefore, upon arrival to friends, it was decided to go not to the north, but to the south - to Krakow. This idea was unanimously approved, and we hit the road by car.

South. Beskids. Krakow

From up to a few hours drive, and here we are. We rented an apartment through airbnb and, having parked the car, went on foot to the old city. The entire historical center is surrounded by a neat park with cycle paths and places to relax in the shade of trees. We entered the city from the side of Shchepanska Square near the Palace of Arts, and right away, we got to a light show - many fountains were illuminated and created a festive atmosphere. After admiring the luminous jets, we headed to the heart of the Old Town - Rynok Square.

1 /1

The same city can be completely different depending on the time of day. To admire all its beauties in the daytime, we recommend on an educational excursion. Krakow greeted us with yellow lights of lanterns in the twilight that descended on the city, the sounds of a jazz orchestra in the Main Market, the clatter of hooves and the creak of carriages from the carriages. A discordant crowd of tourists slowly moved through the streets, flowing from one brightly lit building to another. We also followed their example and dived into the Cloth Rows - the central structure of the square. This historical building was transformed and completed several times under different rulers, but it always had one purpose - trade. And now here they sell souvenirs and handicrafts, from leather bags to amber jewelry. The variety is such that your head is spinning and you want to buy everything. Coming outside, St. Mary's Church with towers will immediately appear before your eyes, which at night looks like an old castle. The square is full of cafes and restaurants where you should definitely try zhurek or pies (that is, dumplings and some delicious dessert). This is how we spent the whole evening, walking through the narrow streets of the old city and looking at old houses.

On the second day, we went back to the old city, but from the north side, where the Barbican is located, which once served as a defensive structure. It was connected to the city by a bridge, now there is a branch of the historical museum. We entered the city through the northern gate and headed to the center. During the day, the Market Square looked completely different: the fair, spread over almost the entire territory, noise, music from all the cafes. We hurried to look inside St. Mary's Church: there is a separate entrance for tourists, a separate one for parishioners. The temple is crowded, but not noisy, there is a lot of air inside - this effect is created by high vaults, the huge central nave is painted like a starry sky - golden patterns are on a dark blue background, light pours through high windows, illuminating all the splendor and splendor. If you wait, you can see how a huge altar of carved wood is opened. The church is impressive, but you should definitely look at it from the other side.

We climb the steep steps of the City Hall, at the same time you can see the exposition of old clothes, which is exhibited on one of the floors (the City Hall is a branch of the Krakow Historical Museum). As such, there is no observation deck, just windows are open on the top floor, but the views are still beautiful. The entire Market Square and the church are in full view, the domes are basilicas, and below the cafe umbrellas and fair tents look like a mosaic. Wawel Castle is visible in the distance, just right for us there. And you can learn in detail about all the exhibitions, opening hours and addresses of the departments of the Historical Museum of Krakow.

1 /1

It takes about 10-15 minutes to walk to the Royal Castle from the Market Square along the Grodska pedestrian street, but we didn’t want to rush, because at every step we came across some sights - for example, the Church of St. Andrew the First-Called - or just beautiful historical buildings. The castle itself is a whole architectural complex, which includes about two dozen buildings, but the main ones, of course, are the Royal Palace and the Cathedral of Saints Stanislav and Wenceslas, over the entrance to which huge bones hang, they say that a mammoth. Entrance to the territory of the castle and the cathedral is free, and you need to purchase a ticket to enter the interior, where various exhibitions are located. Wawel Castle stands on the hill of the same name on the banks of the Vistula and offers a beautiful view of the modern part of the city and the river. By the way, going down, you can ride on a cruise boat along the river with a sightseeing tour, and this will allow you to look at the city from a different angle.

It was not by chance that we ended up in Krakow and specifically in Wawel, but because this is the first of 16 castles in the chain of defensive structures. The so-called Way of the Eagle's Nests is a route passing through the voivodships of Lesser Poland and Selesia. King Casimir III the Great built these castles to protect borders and trade routes. And they got such a bizarre name because of their location on the hills and rocks, like eagles' nests. In order not to go astray and not miss a single castle, we used the site and, having examined the first castle, without wasting time, went to the next one.

You can learn all the secrets and legends of Krakow at: why the dragon became a symbol of the city, what you should definitely try from local food, and how women were punished in the Middle Ages. Find all the answers to your questions there!

Castle Kozhkiv

The castle is located 13 kilometers from Krakow near the small village of Kozhkiv. It was erected in the 14th century, restored, and today it is used as a place of celebrations. Weddings and various events are held in numerous halls. On our arrival, preparations for the wedding were in full swing, and one of the halls with old tapestries turned into a banquet hall.

1 /3

Inside, in many halls, the walls are not plastered, but bare brickwork is left and decorated with animal horns. The place is very colorful, but the castle may be closed during celebrations. You can take 1-1.15 to Kozhkevsky Castle and that will be enough.

Ojcovo National Park and Ojcovo Castle

We arrived at the next castle, more precisely, at its ruins, in the afternoon. The car was left in the parking lot, next to the ticket office and the information center, where they will give you a map and tell you the route.

1 /1

The Oytsovsky castle itself is located on a high rock and most of it is destroyed. The gates and a couple of towers have survived to this day in good condition, the rest is only in the form of foundations and ditches, but the view from the rock opens up wonderfully to the emerald hills and the valley. There are several routes in the national park that differ in duration and difficulty. Walking along the paved road, you meet rocks of amazing shape, as if a shark's fin or a knife edge grows out of the ground, who has any associations with these bizarre sculptures of nature. The most famous rock is the Mace of Hercules, a 25 meter high rock formation surrounded by forest. The entrance to the trail through a rocky canyon is a narrow entrance opening into an emerald valley. A great place to breathe in the cleanest air and move forward.

1 /1

There are caves in the park, but we didn’t go down there, the temperature there is not higher than 16 degrees, and after a hot day and an active hike without warm clothes in them, we risked getting sick. But we went to a high observation deck, from where you can see the entire park. It is worth spending 5-6 hours on the Oytsovsky Castle and the park to take a leisurely walk, and if you go down to the caves, it is better to leave a separate day for it.

Rabshtyn Castle

In the evening we reached the town of Olkusz, which is 45 kilometers from Krakow. Nearby was the village of Rabshtyn with a castle, following in our route. We examined the ruins of the castle, which have been partially restored.

1 /2

The gate tower is in good condition, on the information plates they read that there is a small museum inside and various historical festivals are held. We decided to stay somewhere nearby for the night. It turned out that local residents rent their homes to tourists at a low price. We settled on the second floor of a private house right under the castle, and the ruins were visible from the courtyard.

I was awakened by mosquitoes, annoyingly buzzing over my ear, I could no longer sleep and decided to go for a walk. Early in the morning, the time before dawn is quiet, quiet, I left the house and walked along the paved path. The village stands in a lowland around a mountain and a forest, only a small clearing and a pasture near the castle. I went up to the walls, you can see how the fog rises from the cold grass, like a ghost that is afraid of the light.

1 /3

The distant mountains are clearly visible from the hill, and now the first rays of the sun, at first timidly, insinuatingly, shine on the castle, on the forest, on the village, on the clearing. Then, higher and higher, the orange disk of the sun rises above the treetops, the rays become brighter, the white walls of the castle seem to wake up from sleep, the dew glistens on the fresh grass, the fog rises over the forest, evaporates and the mysterious haze disappears. I have never met the dawn in the mountains, it was so simple and fabulous at the same time that I did not regret the early awakening at all.

Smolensk

We arrived in Smolensk for dinner and immediately went to the castle. The whole territory is green and it was pleasant to walk, although the day was hot. More recently, Smolensk was in decline, but now it is being restored and you can walk along the massive walls of the fortress and look at the surroundings from a height, like other fortifications on the way of the Eagle's Nests, it is located on a high hill. We go up the stone stairs to the tower, it is likely that it used to be a sentinel. The view from the tower in all directions - the castle dominates the plains and small hills, the fields, like patchwork clothes, spread around and only in the distance are the foothills covered with forest.

There is a deep well in the courtyard of the castle, and dungeons on the opposite side. At one time, Smolensk was an impregnable fortification, but now it has become an interesting place with rich history and lush nature. 2-2.5 hours are enough for a visit and excursion.

Ogrodzenets

Our last stop on the Way of Eagle's Nests was Ogrodzenets in the town of Podzamche. We enjoyed spending half a day in this wonderful place and were satisfied. Moreover, an amusement park is organized nearby, where neither children nor adults will be bored. The castle is very beautiful, despite its dilapidated state, its snow-white towers and massive walls give the impression of a fabulous town.

1 /2

Currently, work is underway to reconstruct it. But tourists are allowed inside, the entrance is paid, the price also includes a visit to the tower with an exposition of instruments of torture. The structure is located on a hill and, as it were, grows out of the rocks. You can walk for a long time along narrow gloomy corridors with loophole windows, climb galleries, climb towers. And here it is worth lingering and admiring the scenery. The castle is surrounded by a defensive wall, which in one place smoothly flows into the rocks. The whole area is in soft grass, where you can lie and relax after the tour. After walking around the castle and its surroundings, we headed to the amusement park. And here everyone chooses what they want: an adrenaline park in the trees, and an educational theme park Entertaining physics, where you can feel the influence of its laws on different equipment, a toboggan track like for a bobsleigh, but not with such sharp turns, and ghost dungeon.

1 /1

For children there is a miniature park and attractions. You can choose entertainment and events, see prices on the website. Festivals and knightly tournaments are held in Ogrodzieniec, so you can also plan interesting historical leisure. So it won't be boring. We moved home in the late afternoon and only by midnight were we in place.

North. Baltic. Gdansk

A couple of days of respite and we move to the North. Here my soul wanted to turn around to the fullest, and visit the Curonian Spit, and Hel, and in general all, all the lighthouses along the coast. But it wasn’t there - there were only four days left and I had to choose the most interesting and compactly located. The route was as follows: Gdansk-Sopot-Hel-Slavinski National Park.

All motorways are in excellent condition and free of charge, and new motorways are under construction all along the way north. Leaving the suburbs of Warsaw, we got to the evening. We parked at the historical center, after 6 pm parking is free. After walking literally a hundred meters, we came to the pedestrian street Dlugu, on it and the parallel Pivnaya Street a lot of sights are concentrated, which makes the walk rich. Immediately admire the fantasy with which the facades and gables of the houses are decorated. The impression is that these are gingerbread houses with sugar icing at Christmas lined up in a festive window and are waiting to be selected and put in a basket.

1 /2

The splendor of architecture is due to the fact that the city was a rich and important seaport and from the middle of the 14th century it was a member of the Hanseatic League, uniting more than 300 cities of the Baltic. It was inhabited by merchants and merchants who competed in the luxury and beauty of the design of their houses - you look and you will not find two identical ones. Here, dragons on the roofs, and horses, and drainpipes in the form of fish, and statues, like in a museum, adorn the facade of the house. An excellent view of the evenly lined streets and the bay opens from the Town Hall, which is located on Dlugy Targ, as well as from the bell tower of the Church of the Virgin Mary. Along the same streets you can go through the Green Gates to the embankment.

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In the evening, the city is dressed in bright lights, creating a particularly cozy atmosphere, and all this is reflected in the slow Vistula. All cafes and restaurants invite you to drop in and try the delicious fish dishes of national cuisine. That evening we just walked and admired the views of the city. For a greater impression, you can climb in the cabin of the Ferris wheel, which is on Warehouse Island, near the Maritime Museum. But we were very tired and went to sleep.

We rented a house for one night with parking for 100 zlotys (less than 25 euros) in a new district of Gdansk and were very satisfied. In the morning we again returned to the old city, but already purposefully walked to the embankment. There, at the old Crane, the port crane and part-time city gates, we tried delicious smoked sheep's cheese with cranberry jam. This combination gives a very piquant taste and you want to gobble up a dozen of these curds. To complete the picture, we decided to ride on a pirate galleon that stood at the pier along the Vistula to the mouth.

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The cost of the tour is PLN 40 per person (less than 10 euros). There is a guide on board who speaks Russian quite well, but inside the cafe. My husband and I wanted to have a bite to eat and we ordered Polish borscht. I knew that this was not Ukrainian borscht, but I didn’t expect such a deception: four dumplings dangled in a burgundy water - and that’s the whole dish. The galleon slowly sailed along the docks and port shipyards, the guide told the history of Gdansk along the way. The most beautiful views at the very mouth of the sea.

Having examined Gdansk from the water, we went to the Royal Oliwa Park. This is a magnificent botanical park with the abbey palace and the Oliwa Cathedral. On a hot day, it was nice to walk in the shade of trees and admire the well-groomed flower beds. There are several small reservoirs in the park connected by a cascade of waterfalls. Concerts are held in the summertime - we caught one of these, the orchestra performed Chopin's works on the open stage. Many cozy and secluded corners of the park are conducive to relaxation on the lawn or on a bench. Ducks and swans swim in the ponds, shady alleys invite you to take a walk, and if you have enough time, then you should definitely spend half a day here.

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Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia - the famous Tricity in the Baltic. And we could not ignore the beautiful Sopot. It is not as lush as Gdansk, but on the contrary, it is somehow relaxed, resort-like, but no less interesting. We only had half a day for it, so I’ll write what I managed to see on the run. There are many cafes and bars on the main pedestrian street of the Heroes of Monte Cassino, but you can see the most interesting when you walk towards the embankment. The Crooked House is built there, incredible, it seems, dancing to a cheerful melody. You look and do not believe that this is possible to build. Walls and corners do not want to obey strict geometry, and jump out of the boundaries of straight lines, it seems that you are looking at a reflection in a crooked mirror. Inside, nothing betrays its “crookedness”, but all the lines are smooth, in some ways they even resemble the architecture of Gaudi. Closer to the sea is a lighthouse that adorns the city landscape. It is not active, but colorful, also due to the fact that it has a square shape at the base, unlike conventional cylindrical lighthouses.

The crisis has left its mark on the life of Russians - due to the depreciation of the ruble, the flow of our compatriots to Europe has noticeably decreased (according to tour operators, the demand for trips abroad during the May holidays fell by 25%). However, in Europe there are places where you can have a good rest, having a small budget in your pocket. We decided to explore one of these destinations and went to Poland.

What is known in Russia about Poland? Often, your interlocutor will paint a rather bleak picture for you. Allegedly, Poland is a dull gray place where Russians are not liked, wheels are pierced for random travelers, strange motorcyclists are not allowed in, and besides, there is nothing to see there. The statements of various politicians also add fuel to the fire.

The M1 / ​​E30 highway leads from Moscow to Brest, which is distinguished by excellent coverage, good infrastructure, and on the Belarusian section of the route it also has a maximum speed limit of 120 km / h. But before you hit the road, do not forget to take out insurance - the so-called "green card" and, preferably, get an International ID.

If you decide to cross the border with Poland in Brest (Varshavsky Most crossing), we recommend doing it on weekdays when there are fewer people (there are sites on the Internet that allow you to track the number of cars at the border online). There are no problems with spending the night in Poland. In addition to the usual "chain" hotels, "zayazdy" (zajazd) - small motels - are distinguished by a good combination of price and quality. The prices there are moderate (approximately 1000 - 1300 rubles for a double room). You can also stay in the private sector or the so-called "overnight stays" (noclegi), which will cost half as much. However, this option is more likely for young travelers or exotic lovers.

Roads in Poland are of good quality, especially compared to Russian ones, and drivers drive almost the same as in the rest of Europe. The only exception is the speed limit, which few people observe (but we advise you not to exceed, fines in Poland are quite high!).

There are also several features of the high-speed mode. The maximum speed limit in built-up areas is 50 km/h. But outside the city, the nuances begin. On a “simple” two-lane road, you can drive no faster than 90 km / h. If two lanes go in the same direction, the speed increases to 100 km/h. On the so-called "express trains" (droga ekspresowa) you can drive 120 km/h, and on motorways it is allowed to accelerate up to 140 km/h. However, you should not fill your head with numbers, because speed limits are always duplicated by signs.

Another feature is traffic lights in cities. As in Russia, sometimes a special turning section is used to turn right at traffic lights. But there is a caveat: if the green light is on straight, and the section is extinguished, turn right Can. But regardless of this, when turning, do not forget to give way to pedestrians.

But petrol in Poland is expensive. A liter of the 95th will cost an average of 4.8 zlotys (about 66 rubles), for a liter of diesel fuel they will ask for 4.6-4.7 zlotys (about 64 rubles). Therefore, before crossing the border, be sure to fill a full tank.

They say that once upon a time, the three Slavic princes Lech, Czech and Rus went in different directions and founded three states - Poland, the Czech Republic and Rus', respectively (of course, many historians argue with this statement). Well, on this trip we got a real Slavic unity - the Russian crew drove through Poland in a car of a Czech brand.

During our trip, we visited three major cities in Poland: Warsaw, Krakow and Wroclaw. Comparing these three cities with each other is like comparing Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kazan. They are different!

Warsaw

At first glance, the Polish capital may seem like a noisy city. But this impression is deceptive. One has only to get to the old city, as mentally transported to several centuries ago. The most interesting thing is that most of the buildings are replicas. After all, after the Second World War, the whole of Warsaw lay in ruins… Through the titanic efforts of the architects, the Old Town, or, as they say here, “Starowka”, was restored. Moreover, where possible, original bricks were used. UNESCO even listed the Old City as a World Heritage Site “as an exceptional example of an almost complete restoration of the historical period between the 13th and 20th centuries.”

The Royal Castle was built at the turn of the 15th-16th centuries and served as the place where the Polish kings sat, and until the middle of the 20th century, also the president. Interestingly, in different eras, the castle was repeatedly rebuilt in accordance with the current fashion. Now the palace houses a museum where you can see paintings by artists Rembrandt and Matejko, old views of Warsaw by Bellotto, as well as an urn with the ashes of Tadeusz Kosciuszko.

As we have already said, the impression of Warsaw as a stuffy and dynamic place is very deceptive. In the very center of the city there is a real paradise. We are talking about Lazienki Park, which was created in the 17th-18th centuries for the local aristocracy. The park covers 76 hectares and is a wonderful place for walking. It is not only beautiful here, but also excellent ecology - a lot of squirrels, ducks and even ... peacocks! Who walk right along the paths of the park and are not at all afraid of people! By the way, sometimes they scream very funny - do not be afraid.

The famous Palace of Science and Culture, designed by architect Lev Rudnev in 1952-1955, is the tallest building in Poland and one of the tallest in the European Union. The house, which is a "gift from the Soviet people to the Polish", was built on the model of Stalin's skyscrapers in Moscow. It is not surprising that such a project evoked negative associations among local residents, because they saw in this the obvious dominance of the totalitarian system and pressure from Moscow. However, this is already history.

Krakow

After Warsaw, Krakow, which lies in the south of Poland, may seem too calm, much like St. Petersburg after Moscow. But just like in the case of the "Venice of the North", we are talking about the cultural capital of the state, which, moreover, was the real capital. Therefore, there is really something to look at here.

The first thing a tourist sees when going to the Old Town of Krakow from the north is the mighty Barbican (the so-called defensive structure like the Kutafya Tower in Moscow) with the Gates of St. Florian and the city walls. It is hard to believe that there used to be a moat between the Barbican, which was built in the 15th century, and the city walls... However, even now the immersion into the Middle Ages is a success. By the way, you can walk along the fortress walls.

Walking along Florianskaya Street, you will find yourself on the main square of Krakow - the Market. In the Middle Ages, it was one of the largest in Europe, but even today it impresses with its size. Cloth rows (Sukiennice) are located in the center of the square. There is still a brisk trade in them, but former fabrics are increasingly giving way to souvenirs. At an angle to the "clothes" is the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary or St. Mary's Church. Be sure to go inside, because the interior of the cathedral deserves special attention. And the Church is also characterized by two towers that differ from each other. By the way, remember - every day at 10 am from the entrance to the temple starts a free (!) city tour.

Wawel Hill is the real heart of Krakow, because it is here that the Royal Castle and the Cathedral of St. Stanislaus and Wenceslas, which is the burial place of Polish kings, are located. Be sure to visit the courtyard of the castle, which can compete with similar buildings in Italy in beauty. By the way, it is here, in the Royal Castle, that a painting by Leonardo da Vinci is now exhibited - the famous Lady with an Ermine. And a real dragon lives on Wawel. I'm not kidding! The creature from the legends migrated directly to the banks of the Vistula and even lets out flames for the amusement of the public.

Krakow churches deserve a separate story. In general, the Polish word Kościół in translation means only “church”, and in Russian it is more correct to call Catholic churches in the same way as Orthodox ones - churches, temples or cathedrals. However, when speaking of Poland, the word "church" can also be used, just like the word "via" for street names in Italy. In Krakow, the churches are really striking in their beauty. This is due to the fact that the decoration of most of them was created during the period of the so-called counter-reformation and religious wars in Europe. The ascetic interior of Protestant churches was contrasted with wealth and gold in the interior of Catholic churches, designed to show the image of paradise that awaits the believer in case of repentance. By the way, if you decide to visit the Holy Mass, it is better to come early - because sometimes you can simply not enter the temple because of the number of people.

Now the area called Kazimierz is a fashionable place. But once there was one of the largest Jewish quarters in Europe, which you will definitely be reminded of by various institutions and the sounds of klezmer from street musicians. Although the surrounding atmosphere is pleasant, one cannot help but recall the sad page in the history of Krakow - the Krakow Ghetto, which was organized in the neighboring Podgórze district during the occupation of the city by Nazi Germany. Before the war, Krakow was inhabited by more than 60 thousand Jews, after the mass deportations, only 15 thousand remained in the city. However, this was not enough for the Nazis. In March 1943, it was decided to liquidate the ghetto. 8 thousand Jews who were considered fit for work were transported to the Plaszow concentration camp, 2 thousand were killed right on the streets, and the rest were sent to Auschwitz. Departure was carried out from the station, located on the local Place de la Concorde. In memory of the murdered Jews, this place is now called the Ghetto Heroes Square, and in the middle of it there is a monument in the form of empty chairs.

Wroclaw

Wroclaw is the capital of the historical region of Silesia, known for its rich natural resources. Only to whom this region did not belong! And the Poles, and the Austrians, and the Czechs and even the Hungarians. But, of course, most of all in the city it is German influence, because after the War of the Austrian Succession at the end of the 18th century, Silesia for a long time went to the kingdom of Prussia. The Prussian heritage is especially strong in architecture - it is enough to see the town hall on the Market Square or the houses on the Salt Square in the neighborhood to feel like in Germany.

The heart of Wroclaw is Tumski Island, located on the Oder. It was from here that this mighty city began. On the territory of the island, the ruins of some buildings dating back to the 9th century have been preserved. And in its very center is the Cathedral of John the Baptist, which is the first Gothic church in Poland.

Another integral attraction of Wroclaw are the real gnomes. Yes, yes, small figurines of fairy-tale creatures are installed throughout the city. But do not think that the dwarves, or, as they are called here, "dwarfs", are scattered throughout the city just like that. They are full-fledged citizens of Wroclaw and live their lives - go shopping, ride a motorcycle, put out a fire. Therefore, their names are appropriate. For example, "sleepy" or "shopaholic". Looking for gnomes throughout the city is extremely interesting even for adults, and they come across in completely unexpected places.

If you are in Wroclaw, then visit the local zoo. The entrance costs 40 zlotys (about 600 rubles), and you can spend the whole day in it. 4150 animals of 876 different biological species live on the territory of 33 hectares. There is even an aquarium here!

A chicken is not a bird...

...and Poland is not a foreign country. This proverb, in which Poland sometimes gave way to Bulgaria, was probably known to everyone who grew up in the Soviet Union. Perhaps, once it was exactly like that, and Poland did not fundamentally differ from other countries of the socialist bloc. However, over the past 30 years, Poland has experienced fundamental changes. And before writing in the comments “the author was paid by the Poles”, think a little and draw your own conclusions, without imposed stereotypes. During our ten-day trip for a family of two adults and one child, in addition to paying for accommodation (13 thousand rubles), 25,000 rubles were spent on food, a cultural program, and entertainment. And at the same time, we did not deny ourselves anything. Everywhere we were, we were met with a warm welcome, service at a decent level, and at the same time no one tried to deceive us.

Separately, it is worth mentioning such a moment as discrimination. Not once, we emphasize, not once during the trip did we see a prejudiced attitude due to the fact that we spoke Russian. Moreover, the Poles really made a positive impression - here they will always help you get out of the transport with a heavy bag, or hold the door, seeing that you are walking with a stroller. We have to admit that Poland has already become a foreign country in the good sense of the word. And its tourist potential is greatly underestimated by the Russians.

The icing on the cake was a conversation with a Warsaw Legia football fan on the last evening. When he learned that we were from Russia, he was delighted and shook my hand, saying that politicians on both sides are always trying to play off ordinary people, and the Slavs should be friends. It's hard to disagree, especially when the country suddenly opens up to you from such a positive side.