See what "Fez" is in other dictionaries. Fez - the most interesting and picturesque city in Morocco Where is the city of Fez

Africa - Morocco Fez day one.

City of contradictions, "you say that you are going to Fez, but I know that you are not going to Fez ...". is an old adage.

Video about travel to Morocco city of Fez - day 1

Photo report of the trip to Fez

Fez old town

Road to Morocco

And so I am back in Africa and this is the first day of my next trip to this continent, but I did not manage to get to Africa without incident. Namely, about 3-4 months before the trip, I bought a ticket Moscow - Fez at a very attractive price of about $ 150. We bought a ticket and was satisfied and did not attach importance to the nuances. I thought about these nuances 2-3 days before departure. The nuances of such a flight Moscow Fez passes with a transfer in Barcelona.
You arrive in Barcelona at terminal 1 and depart from terminal 2. For example, if you arrive in Paris at Charles de Gaulle airport, there may be the same situation when you arrive at one terminal and depart from another, but there are no problems with this. In this case, 2-3 days before departure, something clicked in me and decided to check this situation more precisely. I began to browse Russian-language sites on which it was written that a free bus runs from one terminal to another, which will take you to another terminal in 10 minutes. On some sites it was even written that the move was carried out through closed communications. But again my doubts crept in and I started asking questions on the tourist forums on this route. And on one of the forums, one traveler answered me that he twice flew a similar route and both times he went outside the transit zone to take a bus that takes him to another terminal. It turned out that in this situation a Schengen visa was required, which was not realistic for me in 2 days.
When I saw that this situation was developing, I wrote a letter to the Barcelona airport from which I received an answer that I needed to find out this situation at the Spanish Embassy. Having added all the terms, I decided to go on an adventure. But before I printed the boarding pass for the flight from Barcelona to Fez, this pass played a very important role.
The gamble consisted in the following, I fly to Barcelona, ​​show the landing, I say that I wrote you a letter to which I did not receive an understandable answer. I called the embassy and they told me that the airport staff would help me. In the end, I had to convince the employees that everything that depended on me I did and they should take me along the landing strip to another terminal.
In the end, I arrive in Barcelona at Terminal 1, go to passport control, the employee is looking for a visa, and I tell her that there is no visa. She looks at me with wide eyes. Then I explain the situation to her and show her the boarding pass, saying that I have everything for the flight and that I am ready to fly.
Then he takes my ticket Moscow-Barcelona, ​​a boarding pass for the flight Barcelona-Fez. 4 people gathered and began to discuss how to act in this situation. In the end, an airport employee came, who took me to the bus aisles and this bus drove me alone to Terminal 2. It turned out such an adventure, perhaps it will serve for someone to draw certain conclusions when drawing up such routes.
What else would I like to add, having gone on this adventure, I went after thinking over the ways of retreat. That is, if the airport staff did not take me to the desired terminal, then I would buy myself a ticket to Morocco with a departure from Terminal 1 via the Internet. Of course, in this case, I would have lost about $ 180 and 10 hours of time, but for me everything ended successfully.

How to get to Fez from the Airport

From da Fes airport you can get at least 2 ways by taxi for 120 dirham = $ 12 and by bus for 20 dirham = $ 2
In fact, I got even cheaper, apparently, just took another bus, the stop of which was near the airport. The fare was 4 dirhams 1 dollar is approximately equal to 10 dirhams. The bus took me to the station, where I took a taxi to get to Medina, where I had a hotel booked. Taxi drivers can take more passengers with them along the way. This is not the first country in which I have encountered such a phenomenon.

Prices in Fez

Hotel prices
For 15-20 euros per night, you can rent a not bad room in a hostel.

Food prices
A tajine costs about 25 to 40 dirhams, which is 2.5-4 dollars, this dish can be quite full.
Shawarma - 15 dirham. For a day, 10-20 dollars will be enough if you do not visit expensive restaurants.

Travel prices
City bus 4 dirhams. Taxis average 20 dirhams.

As soon as I arrived in the old city, a bunch of assistants appeared at once. But everything around is colorful and interesting.

Old city

Looking ahead, I will say that in Morocco, the population that comes into contact with tourists is aimed in all ways to extort money from them. While I was walking to my hotel, a so-called assistant stuck to me, to whom I immediately told that I did not need his help, and I could find my hotel using GPS. By the way, it is not easy to find small hotels in Medina. In fact, these hotels are the home of a person who wanted to earn extra money. Well, walking on the GPS, I saw that I had passed the lane I needed and turned around to come back and immediately above the turn into the lane I saw a small sign with the name of the hotel I needed. This guy saw her too and shouted that this is my hotel and that he found it for me. I brushed him off and went to the hotel, when the door was opened for me, he also followed me, asking for money. I told him specifically that he would not get anything from me, after which the employee at the hotel kicked him out.

But this story did not end there. After a while, the owner of the hotel came. I was treated to tea, I paid for my accommodation, and then there was another knock on the door. The owner went to open it and he heard my covenant. I went up, and there again that guy demands that I pay him. I told him again that there was nothing to pay him for and he would not get anything from me, and if he bothers me, I will now turn on the video camera and the entire Internet will see him begging live. After that, his face changed dramatically and switched from English to Arabic. He said several proposals to the owner of the hotel, after which, surprisingly, the owner of the hotel gave him 10 dirhams, after which he left. It turns out this guy still got his way, he got his dollar.

National cuisine of Morocco

After I checked in, I went to a restaurant for lunch. Usually, during my travels in different countries of the world, I try the national cuisine of the country in which I am. So this time, I decided to order myself a tajin. Tajin is a dish that is cooked in a dish, which is also called tajin, outwardly it looks like a plate or frying pan with a cone-shaped lid. Due to this cover, steam and odor from the food being cooked are prevented from passing through. In fact, almost anything is cooked in tajin, meat, chicken, vegetables, and fruits. In this case, they brought me beef with spices and an egg in a special gravy. In this case, I didn't like the spicy sweet and sour dish. Although the other varieties of tajin that I tried later I liked. The average cost of a tajin is 40 dirham, which is about $ 4. Even in Fez, you can try pies with pigeons, it is unlikely that this can be attributed to national cuisine, but such a dish is present. I was not able to try it, as I learned about it later, although I saw cages with pigeons near small cafes.

Tajine national dish

Meeting with my African fellow travelers

Now, according to the plan, I was to meet with two women with whom I and two of my comrades at the travel forum agreed to make a trip. Evening came, I was at the hotel and waited for them to arrive, although they should have arrived as early as 2 hours ago. It started raining, but they were all gone and I was already starting to worry if everything was all right. After some time, I heard Russian speech, left the room and saw Olga, one of those with whom I was supposed to meet, the second, too, Olga, it turns out, was lost.
It so happened that when they arrived at Medina, one had to find a hotel and then they had to meet at the agreed place. But for some reason, they did not manage to meet in this agreed place. We went with the owner of the hotel to look for a second Olga in the rain. Again they came to the agreed place and bypassed all the lanes that were nearby, but to no avail.
I want to note that looking for a person in Medina is not a rewarding business without a local, you can walk 50 meters away from him and not find him. We returned to the hotel, the rain only intensified and turned into a downpour. And then, quite spontaneously, I decided to ask Olga if her friend had a phone, it turned out that she did. And it turned out quite spontaneously, so I still had roaming enabled. We got through to Olga, her mood, of course, was panicky, and this could be understood. Night, Africa, a downpour, some kind of fortress wall in front of her, some dubious types walk nearby, whether homeless people or drug addicts, and she screams for us to find me faster.
Based on the description of what she said on the phone, we have already examined all these places. Then I asked her to find a decent-looking person to whom I could give my phone and so that he would explain to the hotel owner where to look for her. She gave the phone to the taxi driver and after 10 minutes we found her.
We go with her to the hotel at night in the rain and she tells me. Damn, my friends told me where you were going, what a nafik Africa, that Greece and Thailand are not enough for you, you want to fly to Africa to sunbathe in Tunisia. And then this happens to me on the very first day, I stand at night in the rain in all this horror and remember their words.
Then I tried to explain to her that anything can happen in travel and that you need to be ready for this and take such things as an adventure. And after a while you will generally remember this case with humor. At that time, my words did not make the proper impression. But they did the trick when, 30 minutes later, we were sitting in the hotel drinking good alcohol purchased at duty free. Thus, my first day of travel to Africa passed.

Africa - Morocco Fez day two

Sightseeing in Fez - Bab Bou Jeloud gate, 14th century Bu-Inania madrasah, Medina, tanners' quarter.

Africa travel - Video of the second day in Fez

The second day of his stay in Fez, it was decided to devote to sightseeing of its sights, since time was limited, only the old city was taken into account.

Fez old town

Fez old town

Fez old town

Fes landmarks

- the former capital of Morocco, one of the oldest cities in the country, as well as its spiritual center. The city is considered a contradiction, And the most ... different from other cities in Morocco.
There are several main attractions in Fez - these are Royal Palace, the entrance to which is prohibited, so a visit to this place is doubtful. Leatherworkers Quarter, from which, however, to date, almost nothing is left. What is left of it you will see in the video. Madrasah of the 14th century Bu-Inania. And of course she herself, with its narrow streets and unique flavor. Medina will be especially interesting for people who are in a similar place for the first time.

Bab Bou Jeloud (Blue Gate) gate is also the entrance to Medina. The gate was built by the French in 1913, tourist buses come here and travelers love to be photographed against the background of this gate. The gate is considered the most memorable in the entire Fez Medina. The adjacent 12th century original is less popular with tourists.

Bab Bou Jeloud Gate (Blue Gate)

Madrasah of the 14th century Bu-Inania

The 14th century Bu-Inania madrasah is one of the outstanding examples of world architecture. This is the only school in the city that has its own minaret. Today, the Bu Inania Madrasah is a pearl, a precious masterpiece, testifying to the wealth of the ancient imperial city of Fez. This is one of the few madrasahs in Morocco, which can be entered by the Gentiles.

Medina Fez

The medina in Fez is divided into artisan quarters. One of the main attractions of Medina was the tanner's quarter, where animal skins were processed. Due to the specifics of leather processing, there was a smell that was difficult to tolerate in the quarter. In order to make it easier to be in such a place, sprigs of mint were given out. To date, almost nothing is left of the place where the leather was made; now either a hotel or a restaurant is being built in this place. Getting ahead of myself, I will say I have visited the places of leather processing in Marrakech. I can note that the place is very picturesque, largely due to the smell spread in the places where leather is processed.
And of course, Medina itself is a tourist attraction. Here you just need to walk, look, buy something, chat with people to feel the essence of this place. But Medina is arranged, so it is very easy to get lost here and even GPS will be a weak helper here, since many streets are simply not marked on the map. In this case, for a certain fee, assistants who will periodically come to you or navigators will help you find your way outside the Medina, take a taxi and get to the desired place.

Medina Fez

Medina Fez

Medina Fez

Fez conclusions

Fez is definitely an interesting and distinctive city. The medina of Fez is probably the most authentic in all of Morocco. The only thing that spoils the impression are the clingy assistants, but in Marrakech they are even more impudent, so you just need to accept and maintain your line of behavior. Disappointed that the tanneries were destroyed. Now they are building there, either a hotel or a restaurant.

How many days to allocate for Fez: 2-3 days is enough for Fez as one of the travel points.

In conclusion, I propose to once again make a video tour of Fez

City in Morocco, in the northern foothills of the Middle Atlas. The first capital of Morocco. Founded in 789. Consists of three parts of different times. Fesel Bali, or old Fez (medina, founded in 789): the Karaouin mosque (the oldest Muslim ... ... Art encyclopedia

Fez, a city in the northwest of Morocco. Founded in 789 on the outskirts of a Berber village. The following sequence of formation of names is reconstructed: from the Berber, Isaffen river (singular assif river), a short form of Saf was formed, which as a result of metathesis ... ... Geographical encyclopedia

fez- a, m., FESKA and, w. 1. A rigid, borderless cap in the shape of a truncated cone with a flat bottom, often decorated with a brush. The name of the city of Fez (Morocco), the largest center of production of F. Moroccan F. is usually red in color, with a golden brush. V… … Historical Dictionary of Russian Gallicisms

A city in the northwest of Morocco, the administrative center of Prov. Fez. 449 thousand inhabitants (1982). International Airport. A major cultural, historical and commercial and industrial center of the country. Textile and food industry, chemical, ... ... Big Encyclopedic Dictionary

Ushakov's Explanatory Dictionary

FES, fez, men., And FESCA, fez, women. A cap in the form of a truncated cone, with a tassel, belonging to the national costume in some countries of the Middle East, in Sultan Turkey, etc. (By the name of the city. Fez in Morocco.) Ushakov's Explanatory Dictionary. D.N ... Ushakov's Explanatory Dictionary

M. is the same as Fez Efremova's Explanatory Dictionary. T.F. Efremova. 2000 ... Modern explanatory dictionary of the Russian language by Efremova

Noun., Number of synonyms: 2 headdress (133) fez (4) ASIS synonym dictionary. V.N. Trishin. 2013 ... Synonym dictionary

Fez- Men of the cholovich family of the Misto in Morocco ...

fez- the name of the cholovich family is born ... Spelling vocabulary of the Ukrainian language

Books

• Fez. At the gates of the Moroccan labyrinth, Shulpyakov Gleb Yurievich, A successful Moscow publisher sends his wife to the hospital and remains alone with himself. Due to an absurd accident, his life suddenly collapses. Finding himself in the basement of an unknown eastern city, he ... Category: Contemporary Russian prose Series: Eastern Trilogy by Gleb Shulpyakov Publisher: Eksmo,
• Morocco. Guide, Darr A., ​​Many kilometers of beaches on the coast of the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea, the majestic Rif mountain range, the High and Middle Atlas mountains, deserts in the South - a variety of landscapes ... Category: Africa Series: Russian guide. Polyglot Publisher: Ajax-Press,

Karauin mosque

Fez - Morocco.

Fez is the religious and cultural center of Morocco, its first capital. Once there was a Roman settlement Volubilis, near the ruins of which Berbers settled on the shores of a desiccating river (the Arabs call such rivers wadis). And in 789 Idris I took a hoe and outlined the boundaries of the future city. The city was named Madinat al-Fas ("fas" in Arabic for "hoe").
And soon Fez began to play the role of a holy city, for it became the seat of the shorf, the privileged descendants of the prophet, who subsequently made a significant contribution to the history of the state. The reign of the Idrisids (789-926) was marked by the spread of Muslim culture among the recently converted to Islam of the Berber population of the interior regions of the country.

But the founding father of the capital of Morocco is considered Moulay Idris II, who in 809 built a royal palace and a mosque on the other side of the river. Fez was gradually settled by refugees from Muslim Spain and Ifrikia. In 817, 800 Muslim families arrived from Cordoba (Spain), the city began to be built in the Andalusian style. Later, Arabs from Tunisia and Jews from Spain moved here - they all brought with them cultural and architectural traditions. The city still has the Jewish quarter Mellah (from Arab, "milch" - "salt"): in those days, Jews were forced to grease the heads of criminals before they were exhibited on the city walls.

Idris was the great-grandson of Hasan, the son of Imam Ali, who was married to Fatima, the daughter of the Prophet Muhammad.

Taking part in the uprising in Hejaz (Arabia), Idris was forced to flee first to Egypt and then to North Africa, where the prestige of the descendants of the Prophet Muhammad was high. Here in Morocco, a group of Berber tribal leaders recognized him as their leader.

By the end of the XI century. Prince Yusuf ben Tashufin (1061 - 1106) united both quarters and within the fortress wall. During the Almohad dynasty (1130-1269) Fez became a religious and commercial center. Mills and workshops for tanners, weavers, dyers, coppersmiths, potters were built along the river.

The city became especially famous due to the fact that the Kara Mosque Win and Naho the religious school that marveled with her gradually turned hit the croup ny religious and educational center, a real environment ageless university. Through this hotbed of culture and education, glory and which thundered from Spain to Senegal, almost all grow up whether North Africa.

By the XVI century. Fez is already one of the largest cities in Africa, its population reached 200 thousand. At that time, the city was the political capital of a vast state. Medieval travelers wrote about Fez: “Houses are piled above houses, and at their foot water flows, which is better than any wine” - it was about a river crossing the city and about springs flowing directly into the city; “If there is heaven on earth, then this is Fez! This city combines the beauties of Cordoba and Baghdad and is distinguished by exceptional harmony. "
In 1549 Fez was captured by the sultans of the Saadian dynasty, who made Marrakesh their capital. But in 1666, new rulers from the Philalid dynasty returned Fez to its former significance. Since the XIX century.

In Fez, the bride was brought to the groom's house in a wooden chest covered with brocade, and immediately returned to her parents if she turned out to be not a virgin.

Wandering musicians played and sang in the squares, monkey trainers and snake charmers performed, amulets and bird traders carried goods. At the bazaar, fortune-tellers, sorcerers and alchemists offered their services, and in numerous zavia (cells) of the medina, rosary beads were fingered and the marabouts - hermits - silently prayed.

Among the monuments of Fez, the old madrasahs of Bu-Inania, Attarin, Sherratin and others attract attention. The Bu-Inania madrasah is famous for its chimes in the form of 13 bronze bells. These chimes were made by a brilliant mechanic back in the 14th century. Madrasahs played a huge role in the life of medieval Morocco. Initially, they existed at mosques on donations from believers and frequent subsidies. Here they taught the Koran, theological sciences, rhetoric and Islamic law.
The courtyard of the Bu-Inania madrasah.

Fez is revered as the cradle of Morocco. At that time, the residence of the Sultan was located here.
In 1844 and 1859-1860. Morocco waged wars with France and Spain. The French protectorate, declared in March 1912, saved Morocco from anarchy and a possible division between the European powers. During the period of French colonization, the capital was moved to Rabat.

In the opening of the gate, you can see the panorama of the Old City, races put in the lowlands: ancient ocher-colored walls surround cluster vintage houses with flat roofs and a network of twists true streets above which, like masts, the gray from the time of the couple squares of minarets. There are about 300 of them, many un ical.

Modern Fez consists of two parts - the Old City of Fez el-Bali and the New City of Fez el-Jadid. In the northern part of the New Town, there is the palace square, where important ceremonies were held in the old days. It is surrounded by high walls adjacent to the royal palace. The arsenal building is located on the western side (now it is the premises of a carpet factory). On the south side, the majestic Bab Dekaken gate of the 14th century rises. with massive cogged towers. In addition to them, several more ancient gates have survived in the city, including the Bab-Bou-Jelud gate. Renovated in 1913, they amaze with sumptuous glazed ceramics painted with intricate arabesques, blue on the outside and green on the inside.

Old Fez differs from the new quarters with its original smell. The fact is that the monuments of ancient architecture are located in the immediate vicinity of the craft and shopping districts, as evidenced by the aromas of spices and tanned leather. Henna, antimony and flower oils are traded on the squares of the square. Berber pottery is sold nearby, modestly decorated with simple geometric patterns.

Fes-el-Bali today is more often called medina (Arab, "city"). It is somewhat isolated from the modern Fez. City cemeteries, which were located directly outside the city walls, prevented the New City from invading the Fes el-Bali quarters. This allowed the medina to remain almost intact. Now it is a labyrinth of narrow streets and dead ends, with a total number of, according to some estimates, more than 9 thousand. The atmosphere of gray antiquity reigns here. Once an official, accompanied by 12 archers, rode the city every day on horseback to check the quality of products on the market, publicly whip those who tried to weigh the buyers.

Locals love comfort and are not devoid of elegance in their clothes. This is especially true for women: to marry a native of Fez means to bring a wife with an agreeable character and golden hands to the house. Women in the city rarely cover their faces, which indicates that most of the population comes from Berber families, where women have a worthy place. So the Fesians feel some superiority in relation to other inhabitants of Morocco.

The main shrine on the right bank of the Fez River is the Andalusian Mosque. Built in the 9th century, it was expanded and decorated in the 13th century. The graceful silhouette of the mosque dominates the adjacent quarter. The monumental gateway, adorned with mosaics, has a magnificent carved cedar canopy.

In the Karaouin quarter, which arose after immigrants from the Tunisian city of Kairouan settled here, there is the famous Karaouin mosque. The building was rebuilt several times until it turned into the largest mosque in North Africa. It was here that the famous University of Fez was located, one of the oldest in the world, where in the XIV century. studied 8 thousand students. Its unique library possesses a valuable collection of ancient manuscripts and manuscripts.
One of the shrines of Morocco is the mausoleum of Idris II. The streets around the tomb are partitioned off with a wooden beam, which forces passers-by to bow their heads. The entrance behind the girder is not allowed for non-Muslims: the chorm begins here - a territory forbidden for non-Muslims. Once upon a time in this place people persecuted by the authorities took refuge, who enjoyed the right of asylum on the holy land.

On the border of the Fes-el-Bali and Fes-el-Jadid quarters, there is the Fez Museum of Art and Traditions, where you can see the best examples of ancient ceramics, magnificent embroidery, carpets, a collection of bronze doors, astrolabes of the XI-XM centuries. The museum is housed in a palace built by the Alawites in the 19th century.
It is believed that the Fasi - the inhabitants of Fez - have a special character, which was formed due to the fusion of many cultures and traditions: the Arabs brought nobility, the natives of Spain - sophistication. Jews are cunning, and Berbers are tolerant and industrious.

Fez is going through difficult times today. The old town still amazes visitors with the spirit of the Middle Ages that reigns within its walls. But “the soul and heart — the kingdoms as the Moroccans call it) need attraction. Former Director General of UNESCO Amadou Mahtar M'Bou in April 1980 made a call to save "one of the most glorious cities in the Islamic world - a city of faith and knowledge, a wonderful cultural and artistic center, Athens in Africa, a focus of talents and religious tolerance." "Fez," said M. Bowe, "must be saved for the sake of its population, for the sake of Morocco, for the sake of the Islamic world and the entire international community, for it is the heritage of all mankind."

The problem is that after 11 centuries of harmonious development of the city, demographic pressure has upset the balance between man and his environment. The indigenous population of Fes el-Bali began to move to new quarters. Yesterday's peasants with no historical consciousness settled in their houses. In pursuit of comfort, they break down old houses, thereby causing irreparable damage to the ancient city.

The renowned university has long been transferred outside the city walls, the madrasahs have fallen into disrepair. Traditional crafts are dying out. The former residents of the medina, hoping to profit from tourists, were interested in restoration and renovation work. Now, unauthorized development has begun within the Old City, seriously disrupting the structure of the medina.

Demographic growth has led to another detrimental effect - water pollution. The river has turned into a gutter. For more than ten centuries, a wonderful system has been successfully operating, which supplied residential buildings, tanneries and other workshops, mills, fountains and gardens with water. Now, due to the rapid growth of the population and its own wear and tear, the system can no longer cope with its task.

The lack of jobs has led to the creation of small craft workshops, which do not contribute to the preservation of ancient buildings. We are talking, on the one hand, about people who are desperately fighting for a piece of bread, and on the other, about medina, which should fit into our era, without losing its former brilliance, its memory and soul. As always in such cases, the solution to the problem is impossible without large investments. But so far, as they say in Morocco, the international community resembles a person who abandoned an inheritance in order not to pay tax.

Every human activity, both creative and destructive, every manifestation of nascent or dying life was accompanied by a stench.

Patrick Suskind. "Perfumer. The story of a killer "

Once upon a time, as a child, I watched the movie "Labyrinth". I don't remember the plot anymore. I only remember that there was an old swamp, the stench of which was never washed away. It was called that - Swamp of the Eternal Stink. I was sure that this was an invention of the writers: well, such a smelly place cannot exist in the real world. I admit I was wrong.

In Africa, there is the country of Morocco. There is a city of Fez in Morocco. In Fez there is an old medina of Fez el-Bali. In Fes el-Bali there is a quarter with leather workshops. In the quarter with leather workshops, there is a place where leather is processed and dyed - Shuara. And there hangs such a stench that the Swamp of the Eternal Stink - well, just nervously smokes on the sidelines. It seems: well, how can you surprise us, we have lived all our lives in Russia, but in some passages and front ones we have not such a smell ?! It turns out - there is something. No, if you look at the dye houses of Fez from the roofs of the surrounding buildings, as all normal people do, then all this disgrace does not smell so bad. Firstly, there is some kind of breeze, which nevertheless slightly dilutes the stench hanging over the dyehouses. Secondly, local traders helpfully give out a couple of mint leaves to all visitors, which, if applied to the nose, almost completely interrupt the remnants of an unpleasant smell. In short, you can live! But if you go downstairs and make your way into the very heart of the dye-house, right to the vats in which the skin is soaked, it immediately becomes clear that any even the most pissed gateway in comparison with this place is just a fragrant flower bed. As soon as you enter there, nausea rolls up to your throat, and your eyes grow cloudy, so you instinctively try to hold your breath and shove mint deeper into your nose. And the only thought that comes to mind at this time is how not to lose consciousness and flop into one of these fetid vats ... Brrr! Even after a few months, just remembering about Fez - I immediately begin to feel this disgusting smell, as if I never managed to wash it off. Only hot tea with cognac helps out ...

Fez is the first city founded by the Arabs on the lands of the modern, a pearl of Arab culture, a religious and scientific center and one of the "imperial cities". Let me remind you that this term is used to refer to cities that at different times became the capital of the country. Three other imperial cities: Meknes, Rabat and. The latter for many centuries was the main rival of Fez in the struggle for metropolitan functions. In some periods of its history, the country split into two independent states, each with its own capital: Fez in the north and Marrakech in the south. And, according to one version, the modern capital - Rabat - is nothing more than a compromise between these two cities.

Translated from Arabic, "fez" means "pick" (or "kaylo"). According to the legend, it was with this instrument that Idris I, the founder of the Arab dynasty of the Idrisids, in 789 outlined the first border of the city.

Today's Fez consists of three parts: Fez el-Bali - an old medina surrounded by a medieval fortress wall, Fez Jdid - a new medina founded in the 13th century, and New Fez, located outside of them, founded in 1916.

The historical part - Fes el-Bali - is considered the largest medina (and also a pedestrian zone) in the world. Since 1981, it has been an object.

Even in the morning, when we had breakfast in and were just about to leave in the direction of Fez, I used the application and booked us a room in one of the local riads, somewhere on the outskirts of Fez el-Bali. I deliberately chose a hotel near the fortress wall and gates: the fact that trying to enter the medina by car is a bad idea, I realized on the first day of our trip, scrubbing the walls of the narrow streets of Marrakech with rear-view mirrors.

In general, in more or less decent hotels in Fez there is a tradition to meet guests at the city gates with a donkey or mule, on whose back suitcases will be loaded. There is no other transport here and there cannot be: the streets are so narrow that even a donkey cannot get through everywhere. We didn't need such a service - the parking lot was located literally around the corner from our riad, so, squeezing our Hyundai between a couple of some battered trucks, we happily rushed into the medieval alleys of Fez.

Despite the fact that it was no more than two hundred meters from the parking lot to the riad, the search took twenty minutes. Several times we walked back and forth past a nondescript, shabby door, and only after that we decided to take a closer look at the small rusty plaque above it - the hotel we were looking for was right in front of us. The knock from the ancient knocker echoed off the stone walls and disappeared into the distance. Hurried footsteps were heard behind the door, an old lock creaked softly, and a friendly Arab gestured us inside. Following a short corridor, we found ourselves in the courtyard of our riad.

This is what any decent Moroccan riad looks like. In the past, this word was used to designate the houses of wealthy Moroccans, nowadays they call traditional Moroccan hotels located in ancient buildings: outside there is a blank wall and a dirty inconspicuous door, inside there is a real palace with fountains, swimming pools, expensive finishes and spacious comfortable rooms.

View of our room. It was possible, of course, to ask to settle us on one of the upper floors, but that night we were the only guests, so leaving our room directly into the courtyard suited us perfectly.

Prices for a night in a Moroccan riad start from a few dollars and can go up to several hundred - it all depends on the level of the hotel. Thanks to us, we paid only fifty dollars for the night in these mansions.

The room included a delicious breakfast, fast wi-fi and a rooftop terrace. This is a traditional set for any self-respecting riad. Well, if you spend the night in a palace, then breakfast should be royal.

Not long before that, Dimon made a senseless attempt to wake me up so that I would climb up to the roof with him to photograph the dawn. Mindful of the vow I had made to myself the day before, I just kicked him a couple of times with my heel, after which I happily fell back to sleep.

Judging by the fact that Dimon showed me at breakfast only two photographs with vases illuminated by the mild morning sun, I concluded that the dawn that day was so-so, and my decision - to get enough sleep at least once during this journey - was undeniably correct.

Riad we came across, of course, indescribably beautiful. The feeling that we are in a real Moroccan fairy tale never left me for a minute.

Having finished breakfast, we threw our suitcases into the car and set off to explore the mysterious medina of Fes el-Bali - a mysterious world consisting of almost ten thousand lanes. Most of them end in dead ends, and the total length should be tens, if not hundreds of kilometers. In general, you can wander here for a very, very long time.

Most of the walls in Fez el-Bali are blank. And most importantly, you will never guess what is hidden behind their unremarkable doors: there, with equal probability, there can be both a slum and a royal palace. Traditionally, the windows in Moroccan houses overlook only the courtyard. Such architecture, firstly, protects from the heat, and secondly - from prying eyes.

To be honest, all the medina of North Africa are about the same. There is nothing special to look at: an old mosque, an old school, well, maybe a couple of other unremarkable buildings of dubious historical value, and that's all.

The most interesting thing here is street life, which everywhere - from Egypt to Morocco - looks about the same: shopping arcades, shopping arcades, shopping arcades ...

Of course, Fez el-Bali stands out among other old Arab cities for its scale.

A real human anthill. In all directions, there are hundreds of passages-streets, no more than a meter wide. Getting lost in this maze is as easy as shelling pears.

Initially, the density and randomness of the building was explained by the fact that everyone tried to settle inside the city walls - they say it's safer. But over time, it became clear that the strength of the clay fortifications surrounding the medina was clearly overestimated. Then the inhabitants of Fez came up with the following: in the event of an attack, they simply opened the city gates and let the robbers inside. The latter very quickly lost their orientation and split into small groups, after which the inhabitants easily dealt with the enemies one by one ...

To date, there is not a single map of Fez in the world. Even Google Maps and Maps.me have a very rough idea of ​​its layout - only the main streets are marked there, by the way, in reality, they are located completely differently.

All guidebooks describing Fez pour out pretentious wishes a la "for completeness of sensations - be sure to get lost in the medina".

You know what? It is simply impossible to go here without a guide and not get lost. All this web of streets is such a complex and intricate labyrinth that you don't even have to try to find your way in it. You fold it two or three times - and you no longer remember where you came from, everything is the same. There are no landmarks. If you get lost, then by mobile to the question "Where are you?" it will be possible to answer only "I am here!".

It is worth spending five minutes in Fez el-Bali - and you are guaranteed not to know where you came from or where to go next. The navigator will not help much either - on the narrow covered streets, the signal from satellites or mobile communication towers is far from always being caught, so your location on the mobile map will jump back and forth like a young stallion. The only option remains - to move instinctively, this is the only way to get where you need to. No, of course not on the first try. And not from the second. But, as you know, the road will be mastered by the walking one.

You can, of course, succumb to the temptation and use the services of local helpers, but this is fraught with either high costs or big problems. And although Fez is considered one of the safest cities in Morocco, unpleasant stories sometimes happen on its streets. When we were in Merzouga, local guys showed us a fresh video on YouTube - just a week before our arrival, one of the locals stabbed German tourists with a knife.

The streets of Fes el Bali are narrow and dark. Moreover, they tend to taper towards the top - as if buildings are piled on top of each other.

Let's add to this dirt, noise, a lot of smells and multiply by the aggressive pestilence of local residents. They will literally grab your clothes, trying to offer you something. You will politely refuse them, and they, without paying any attention to it, will run next to you, shout something and wave their hands. Wherever you turn, they will try to explain to you that you are going in the wrong direction - you need to go the other way, and now they will show you the way. Literally in five minutes you start to get tired of this obsession.

In general, walking around Fez is not very pleasant, especially with a couple of expensive cameras hanging in plain sight.

Fes el-Bali, like any other medina, is divided into shopping districts. Each of them specializes in one thing.

They sell electronics here.

There are leather goods.

Each block has its own mosque, water supply system, bakery and hamam.

Previously, at night, the passage was blocked by special doors, so it was impossible to get from one block to the next. Today this tradition is a thing of the past.

Fez is the scientific, spiritual and religious capital of Morocco. It is often called "Western Mecca" and "African Athens".

One of the main local attractions is the al-Karaouin University, founded in the 9th century. According to the Guinness Book of Records, this is the world's oldest permanent educational institution.

But the most interesting thing in Fez, of course, is the Shuar leather dyeing houses, known all over the world. It was they who became the reason that this city was in our itinerary.

The dye houses are located on the banks of a small river. From the stories of other travelers, I knew that there are always a lot of workers washing skins. Therefore, seeing instead of them a large construction site, I doubted whether we had come there at all.

Checking the navigator showed that we are on the right track.

Dyehouses are best viewed from the rooftops of adjacent shops. Traders actively invite all tourists upstairs, in the hope that the latter will buy something from them when they go downstairs. We did not deviate from the standard program and climbed the stairs to one of the rooftops.

From there, I hoped to see many colored vats in which leather is dyed. Instead, there was a huge construction site in front of me. Just a couple of weeks before our arrival, the dye houses were closed for a six-month reconstruction, during which they will be turned into a tourist attraction.

It is clear that now you can forget about the former charm. So that you have an idea of ​​how they looked before reconstruction - keep an archive photo ().

What to do next was completely incomprehensible. There were no worthy ideas, so we couldn't think of anything better how to get a language from the nearest leather shop. From him we learned that, firstly, there are two dyes in Fez - old and new. Secondly, the old ones are closed for reconstruction, and the new ones are still functioning as before. Thirdly, that although they are inferior in size to the old ones, they feel no worse. Fourthly, that with a strong desire, you can get inside, although usually no one is allowed there.

We decided to give it a try. There were two options: either go ahead with a fight, or stealthily, like a ninja, from the back. We chose the second one: we captured some young guy who promised to lead us along secret paths, and dived with him into some dark alley. After a couple of moments, we were inside.

Sheep, camel and horse skins were soaked in huge vats filled with horse urine mixed with ingredients unknown to me. Everything around them was covered with a thick layer of some kind of shit. From all this came a thick stench, even if you hang an ax.

The depth of the vats, by the way, is several meters. If you accidentally stumble, it will hide it.

Technologies have not changed here for centuries. Everything is done in the same way as it was many centuries ago.

As Tyoma Lebedev wrote in his story about a visit to Fez: "The path of a sheep from a meadow to a purse is not easy."

They found us very quickly - soon a pot-bellied Arab approached us, trying to take money from us for a visit and kick us out. And if he did not manage to cope with the first, then in the second he succeeded: we were brought back to the city in shame.

And although we stayed inside for five minutes, no more, impressions are now - for the rest of our lives.

Working for a kozhemyak, of course, is no such thing as trash. I don’t know how long they end up living, but I doubt very much that for a long time.

By the way, the prices in Fez are among the lowest in Morocco.

After a while, we, with some difficulty, escaped from the stuffy streets of Fes el-Bali. As soon as we were about to go further - to Chefchaouen - Dimon saw some ruins on the hillside that he needed to see. I had to go there first.

The ruins turned out to be old royal tombs.

They had a beautiful view of Fez el-Bali.

Only here we were dismissed from visiting the krasiliens, and we breathed in deeply the sultry wind flying over Fez. The journey continued.

The show will go on!

* * *

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Fez is not only the largest center of religion, culture and education in the country, but also the oldest of the four imperial cities (three more - Meknes, Marrakesh, Rabat). Despite its long history, this amazing city has remained a true example of the Muslim Middle Ages, where practically nothing has changed. Its winding streets still look like labyrinths, the same families live in the old quarters from century to century, grandmother slippers and Berber carpets are invariably sold in street markets, and city tanners still process leather according to old traditional technologies that are passed on from generation to generation. This unique city, bright and vibrant, is a real monument to ancient times, where travelers from all over the world strive every year.

Climate and weather

Fez is located in the Mediterranean climate zone, thanks to which the summers are very hot and dry, and the winters are quite cool and humid. It is worth noting that the weather in this region is influenced by the proximity of the Atlas Mountains, and therefore it is characterized by drops in day and night temperatures, as well as a pronounced seasonality. In summer, the average daily temperature here is about +26 ° C, although there were times when the air warmed up to +45 ° C and higher. In winter, it often rains, and the thermometer fluctuates around the +12 ° C.

The best time to travel to Fez is early summer (May - June).

Nature

Fez is located in the north-east of the country, in the northern foothills of the Atlas Mountains. There are no natural reservoirs in the city and its environs, and the vegetation is mainly represented by junipers, evergreen oaks, dwarf palms and cedars.

sights

Fez, which is rightfully considered a real pearl of Arab culture, as well as the cultural and religious center of Morocco, consists of three separate areas. The most notable of these is Fes El Bali... This medieval city with its intricate labyrinths of narrow streets and many mosques is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. District Fes el Jdid abounds in ancient monuments of the Marinid era, and New Fez was built in accordance with modern architectural canons.

Of the many architectural monuments, one of the most interesting is Al-Karaouin University(859), which became a real spiritual and educational center of the Islamic world. Another attraction of Fez, without a doubt, was the palace Bou Inania Madrasah with its own minaret, serving as a Muslim religious school. On the facade of this complex there is a unique example of a water clock, which invariably delights guests of the city. No less remarkable are the blue and white gates. Bab Boo Jelud with spectacular ornaments, the sultan's mausoleum Moulay-Idris II with sacred artifacts and the Royal Palace, which houses the Museum of Art.

In addition, a unique place in Fez is the old Quarter of tanners Shuara where you can watch the process of leather production using unique ancient technologies (tamping, drying, painting).

Nutrition

Fez cuisine is considered the best in the country, so it is not surprising that in the city you can see a small national restaurant or eatery literally on every corner. Local chefs are famous for combining sweet and salty foods in one dish, and also using fruits instead of vegetables. In addition, almost all dishes are generously flavored with a variety of spices and seasonings (cumin, cinnamon, coriander, sweet or hot peppers, etc.).

The main treat of Fez is the so-called marshmallow - puff pastry with pigeon meat, almonds and sugar. Meat tajin with quince, lamb with prunes and dried apricots, and duck with nuts and raisins are considered no less original and tasty dishes that are most common here. An integral part of any Moroccan meal is delicious fresh bread served with caraway seeds and salt. Well, as a dessert, they usually serve seasonal fruits or sweet pies with honey, nuts, cinnamon and sesame seeds. All these delights are often washed down with sweet mint tea or fresh juices and cocktails with almonds and avocados. It is worth noting that, despite the fact that Morocco produces excellent wines, the Muslim religion prohibits the use of alcohol, so they are rarely served in national restaurants.

Accommodation

In Fez, the most popular among tourists are "riads" - old houses with picturesque gardens and luxurious decoration, which have been converted into hotels. Most often they consist of 5-6 small, but very cozy rooms, for example, Riad said(from $ 113) or Riad rcif(from $ 40).

Of course, there are many traditional hotels in this old town. Modern and luxurious hotels are concentrated directly in New Fez: Palais Faraj Suites & Spa, Les Mérinides, Ramada Fes etc. Well, accommodation options of a low price category, namely hostels (from $ 8) and hotels 1-2 * (from $ 23), are located in the historical part of the city.

Entertainment and recreation

Despite the fact that Fez is a calm and rather old-fashioned city, any tourist can easily find an interesting pastime here. For example, you can play golf (there is a great course here) or go horse riding. You can go on a multi-day horse trek with stops in Volubilis and Meknes. Tennis is no less popular in the city. So, every year the Grand Prix of Princess Lalla Meriem is held here, in which the most famous tennis players participate.

Fez is also famous for its numerous festivals and holidays, of which the most popular were the Festival of Sacred Music, the Cherry Fair and the Jazz Festival in Riads. As for nightlife, there are clubs and bars only on the territories of large hotels. In addition, many hotels offer all kinds of short courses in Fez cuisine, pottery, calligraphy and Arab-Andalusian music.

Well, for those who want not only to relax, but also to improve their health, there are many hammams and spas in Fez. The city also has a luxurious thermal center "Moulay Yakub" with warm healing springs.

Purchases

As in any Moroccan city, Fez has many bustling and colorful markets where you can buy all kinds of souvenirs and local delicacies. The largest number of such markets is concentrated in the old district, which is famous for its special oriental flavor. First of all, you should pay attention to fez hats, traditional grandmother slippers, tajins, as well as jewelry and fabrics. In addition, Fes has many interesting specialty markets such as the Spice Bazaar. El-Attarin, Fish and salt market, bazaar of medicinal plants Al-Shabin etc.

However, Fez's main commodity is undoubtedly leather goods, which are sold in the famous tanners' quarter. Leather in the city has been made for a very long time, and it is processed according to old recipes, without the use of alkalis and acids, so residents of the whole country flock here for high-quality and original bags, jackets and accessories.

In addition to markets and bazaars in Fez, of course, there are large shopping centers and supermarkets where you can buy literally everything, but there is no unique oriental atmosphere there. It should be said that there is no generally accepted schedule for opening and closing stores in Fez, so most of them work on an individual schedule. Well, markets and bazaars are open here almost all daylight hours.

Transport

In Fez, public transport is represented by city buses, which cost approximately $ 0.3. It is worth noting that the buses do not have a clear timetable, and you can only find out the route they will follow from local residents. In addition, bus stops are often not marked, so you can understand exactly where the bus should stop by the crowd of people gathered near the road.

Taxis in Fez are mainly small cars that are designed for three people. They usually do not have a fixed fare, so the price must be negotiated in advance. Also "big" taxis are popular here, which are analogous to route taxis. There are also taxis with meters that are familiar to us in the city, although there are not very many of them.

Connection

To make a call within the country or abroad, it is most convenient to use mobile communication, which in Morocco works in the standard GSM 900... It is carried out through three mobile operators: Maroc Telecom, Meditel and INWI... Roaming in the country is available to subscribers of all major foreign operators. Also, guests of the city are offered local prepaid SIM cards (about $ 22). Prices and tariffs can be found directly in the brand shops of the city.

An alternative to mobile phones are street machines that operate on telephone cards ( Maroc Telecom) or coins. Cards are sold in almost all major stores and post offices, as well as at gas stations.

Internet access is provided in most hotels, and most often it is already included in the room price. In addition, there are several dozen internet cafes in Fez, where the cost of an hour online session is no more than $ 1. There is no GPRS roaming throughout Morocco.

Security

In Fez, tourists are primarily advised to be extremely careful when handling local currency. Very often sellers imitate the absence of change notes, and sometimes they can slip a nonexistent bill ( "Berber dichrome").

You should be wary of all sorts of scammers and beggars: in no case should you accept any services from strangers. Also, in order not to become a victim of pickpockets, in public places, you must carefully monitor your personal belongings.

Business climate

Fez is not only a major cultural and historical heart of Morocco, but also a fairly significant commercial and industrial center of the country. The city's economy is based on the textile and food industries, as well as woodworking. In addition, Fez is the main supplier of leather in the country. In the area of ​​New Fez, there are many branches of the country's largest banks and state-owned companies, as well as a large number of buildings that are intended for holding congresses and business meetings.

Real estate

Recently, there has been an increased interest in Fez real estate not only among Moroccans, but also among foreign investors. One of the main reasons for this trend is the fact that prices in the local real estate market remain stable and quite reasonable, despite the cultural and historical uniqueness of the city.

For example, the cost of a small house without renovation here is about $ 40,000, and for a house with three bedrooms and in excellent condition, they will ask for about $ 100,000. Larger properties, including commercial buildings, cost at least $ 200,000.

A trip to Fez is recommended to coincide with the International Festival of Sacred Music, which takes place in early June. During this massive event, the city is filled with musicians representing religious communities from the Middle East, West and Asia. Throughout the festival week, numerous concerts and performances are held here, during which you can listen to the trance music of the Berbers, the sacred music of the Celts, Arab-Andalusian music and the sacred hymns of Hindustan, as well as see the dances of the Sufi dervishes from Turkey.