Specific tips for independent travel to south africa. To Africa without a visa: what Russian tourists need to know about South Africa South Africa travel

Since March 30, 2017, a visa-free regime has been introduced between the Russian Federation and South Africa. Tourists can stay in the African republic without a visa for up to 90 days. The entry stamp will be placed at the border. In addition to a passport and return tickets, additional documents are usually not required. For transit passengers - no problem either.

Below is information that is relevant before the abolition of visas, or for a long-term visa. Plus some useful South African travel details.

South Africa is one of the most attractive tourist destinations throughout the African continent. In this country you can find an enchanting mixture of cultures and customs, modern cities and the good of humanity and splendor nature reserves... To get to this land of contrasts Russians need a visa, which can be obtained through the consular section of the South African embassy in Moscow. It is necessary to collect a lot of documents to provide complete information about the applicant, so that a visa to South Africa in a short time is already on hand.

The main feature is a mandatory invitation or a detailed travel plan, which is agreed with a travel agency in South Africa itself. The procedure for submitting documents and the questionnaire that should be filled out is similar to the one when registering entry to. It is not surprising, because much of the South Africa's structure takes its roots precisely from Foggy Albion.

Types of visas

In addition to a tourist visa, the following types of visas can also be obtained with appropriate justification:

1. Guest, by invitation from a private person residing in South Africa legally on a permanent basis;
2. Business, in the presence of a detailed invitation from legal entities or a partner registered in South Africa on a permanent basis and conducting business in South Africa;
3. Student visa. Having on hand an invitation or a training agreement from an educational institution from South Africa, you can attend the necessary courses for up to 90 days;
4. A medical visa is designed for cases when there are documents confirming the need for a course of treatment in South Africa;
5. Visa for 90 days for the purpose of marriage;
6. Research, conferences, participation in sporting events can be carried out upon receipt of an appropriate visa. In any case, a reasoned justification and an invitation from the college organizing the corresponding event are required;
7. A transit visa is needed if you need to visit South Africa only for a transfer while traveling to a third country.

Separately, it should be noted that the holders of diplomatic and service passports do not need to obtain a visa if the period of visiting South Africa does not exceed 90 days. In any other case, an application and all the necessary documents are submitted.

List of documents

The initial package of documents, which is required for any visa, contains:

• A passport with two free visa pages and a validity period that overlaps the validity of the visa received by one month;
• Completed application form (you can download it;
• One 3x4 cm photo pasted into the application form;
• Confirmation of reservations for roundtrip tickets.

The questionnaire is filled in only in English using one black pen (including signature). A sample of filling out the questionnaire can be viewed. If you are not sure that the applicant will be able to fill in all the points on his own without mistakes, then it is better to contact a translation agency that can help with this. Moreover, you need to contact the bureau in order to translate into English language all accompanying documents such as the child's birth certificate or any statements that will be required to obtain individual visas. In fact, only a bank statement is not subject to transfer. Your answer is sent to the bureau, respectively, for all questions of the questionnaire, for this, all questions in the questionnaire are duplicated in Russian, so that there will be no problems with interpretation and understanding.

The requirements for the photo are standard, as in most consulates of the world - 3.5 by 4.5 cm. To be photographed shortly before the submission of documents, against a light background, full face and without any elements that hide the face or part of it. Digital photos should not be processed, so you should refuse the services of those photographers who offer to correct your photo.

When submitting documents, proof of ticket booking is presented. There is no need to redeem them, because it may happen that a visa will be refused. Fully redeemed tickets will need to be shown only upon obtaining a visa in order to collect the passport.

Additional documents

Confirmation of solvency

For tourists and guests, you must confirm your solvency or indicate a sponsor who will cover all costs for the period of stay in the country. Confirmation can be a bank statement on the status of accounts, a receipt for the purchase of currency or confirmation of the purchase of traveller's checks for the required amount. The required amount of money can be roughly calculated from the condition of spending 100 USD per day per person.

For employees, it is imperative to provide a certificate from the place of work with an indication of the average monthly and average annual earnings. A letter from the company indicating the length of service at this workplace and confirmation of the provision of leave sufficient for the entire period of stay in South Africa on the requested visa. Completed and approved 2-NDFL form. Freelancers (freelancers) or working under contracts will need to provide a certificate from the tax office about registration.

Pensioners confirm their income only by providing a pension and an extract from the pension fund on the state of security. Students who provide a student ID must indicate a sponsor, in the person of a close family member, who will cover all travel expenses. Confirmation in this case is the same bank statement or receipt for the purchase of currency and traveller's checks for the required amount, a letter of sponsorship and copies of all significant pages in the civil passport.

Invitation

Whether it's a visit, business trip or training, you must provide an invitation from an individual, enterprise or educational institution. The more detailed the purpose of the visit is, the better. A mandatory item in the invitation must be information about the inviting party, indicating all contact details. Students who require a visa to study should provide a letter from the South African institution confirming the invitation and student's admission.

Birth certificate for minors

In case of obtaining a visa, children under the age of 18 need to issue their passport for them, even if the parent has it entered in the passport. The birth certificate must be translated into English and the translation must be certified either by a translation agency or by a notary. Also, applications from the remaining parents and guardians about their consent to leave the child, or other official papers that would explain the absence of these permits, must be attached.

Yellow Fever Vaccination Certificate

This is one of the most important requirements for any visitor or visa applicant to South Africa. but for Russian tourists who leave directly from the Russian Federation, such a certificate is not required.

Other documents to be attached

Actually, the requirements of the consulate do not indicate the mandatory presence of medical insurance, but it is better to take care of its registration in advance. The insurance policy must be valid in South Africa and cover approximately USD 30,000.

To visit a country for tourism purposes or by invitation, it is important to convince the consular officers of their intention to return to their country at the end of the trip. Documents confirming that the applicant has real estate, a car and other material benefits can serve as evidence. A certificate from an enterprise or firm on the preservation of the applicant's workplace. A certificate of the composition of the family in the presence of children or spouses who remain at home is also an essential confirmation of the return home.

If the consulate considers that the presented evidence of the applicant's patriotism is not enough, then it may require a security deposit in the amount of 1500 USD, which will be returned only when leaving South Africa home, on time and according to previously presented tickets.

Submission of application and documents. Cost and terms

It is necessary to submit both an application and a full package of documents at the same time. You can use the mail or go directly to the consular section of the South African Embassy in Moscow. For each applicant, including for each minor, the documents are folded into separate envelopes. Before sending documents by mail, a consular fee is paid in order to attach a receipt for payment in an envelope. If you contact the consulate in person, you can pay the fee on the spot in rubles.

On Thursday, March 30, a visa-free regime between Russia and the Republic of South Africa (South Africa) comes into force. Any Russian with a passport can stay on the territory of this African country for up to 90 days. Why you should definitely take the opportunity and visit South Africa, explains the head of the department for relations with Asia and China of the Department of International Relations of TASS, orientalist-Africanist Evgenia Tikhonova.

What should I consider when preparing for my trip to South Africa? Do I need to do any vaccines?

The main requirement is a foreign passport, valid for at least 30 days after the end date of the intended visit to South Africa. The passport must have at least two blank pages so that the customs officer can stamp it.

No vaccinations are required to travel to South Africa. Exception: a certificate of vaccination against yellow fever, but it will only be required if you come from a country where you can catch the disease. A list of countries where yellow fever is endemic is available.

What options / directions / routes do I have? What is the best way to plan, for example, a two-week vacation?

Two weeks for South Africa is absolutely not enough. The country is large, each province has its own attractions. Generally speaking, you can go south to Cape Town and drive along the famous Gardens Road along the southern coast, visit vineyards, take a course on piloting a light plane, watch whales in Mossel Bay (this bay is famous for the fact that this was where the Vasco da Gama in the 15th century), get an adrenaline rush from swimming in the ocean with huge great white sharks, look at the confluence of two oceans at Cape Agulhas.

Or - choose Johannesburg as a starting point, get from there to the Kruger National Park and spend a couple of days on a safari, then go down east coast to Durban, on the way visiting the province of Mpumalanga and the "Window of God" observation deck, seeing the province of Limpopo, its famous marshes and observing hippos, and return to Johannesburg through the stunning beauty national park Golden Gate.

What places are not considered tourist places, but you still need to visit them?

There are no such places in South Africa. Except, perhaps, the mountain kingdom of Lesotho (its territory is completely surrounded by South Africa), but this is more like an adventurous adventure. In addition, Lesotho requires a visa, and the process of obtaining it is a topic for a separate story.

Are there any verified and comprehensive travel guides around the country?

There are no comprehensive guidebooks, everyone uses what seems most convenient to him. Popular Lonely Planet guides mainly describe tourist places leaving the most interesting off-screen. Therefore, the best "guide" is personal impressions and stories of friends who have been there, whose opinion you trust.

Is it better to go by yourself or through a tour operator?

Again, it all depends on your own convenience and travel habits. Of course, the tour operator will offer the most relaxed option, where everything is calculated. But it is much more interesting to choose hotels yourself, work out travel routes and draw up a plan for visiting attractions. Then the trip turns into a real adventure.

In addition, not all Russian tour operators provide trips to South Africa. By the way, that is why there are not many of our tourists in the country - most of all the British, Americans and Germans travel to South Africa (there are no Russians even in the top ten).

How much will the vacation cost?

South Africa is an expensive country. Firstly, the flight there will not be cheap - it is unlikely that it will be possible to get from Moscow with low-cost airlines. The flight itself is long and rather tiring. Well, after December 2014, when the ruble fell, it will not be possible to go to South Africa on a budget all the more. However, each traveler has his own life hacks that allow them to slightly reduce the price when planning a trip on their own, for example, taking a ticket for a special offer or booking a hotel offering discounts.

What about money and exchangers in general? Are e-cards accepted?

Electronic cards are accepted everywhere, except for very remote villages and farm shops (therefore, it is better to have cash with you anyway). Banks also exchange dollars for rand, the official currency of South Africa. The rand exchange rate is floating, so it is subject to fluctuations, often quite strong. Now one rand costs 4.5 rubles.

If you decide to withdraw money from an ATM, you will be charged an additional 3% as a commission for a foreign transaction (although some electronic cards do not fall under this rule). It is also worth remembering that banks in South Africa close early enough, usually around 15:30. On Saturdays they are open only until 13:00, and on Sunday they are closed all day.

What you need to know about the specifics of South Africa (in terms of history, laws, some written and unwritten rules of conduct)?

You must always respect the local population (however, this applies to any country), local rules and customs. The black people of the country do not like very much when they are shamelessly photographed. You can relate to the figure of Nelson Mandela in different ways, but you should always remember that in South Africa he is a national hero.

Things to remember when dealing with local residents? Is it easy to find a common language with them? Do they understand English?

In South Africa 11 official languages(and the same number of official names of the state), and the inhabitants of the country are often called the "rainbow nation" because of the large number of ethnic groups and cultures. English is spoken throughout the country, but it is only the fourth most widely spoken language. Most South African citizens speak Zulu, followed by the scythe (which is Nelson Mandela's native language) and Afrikaans. However, the majority of residents speak several languages ​​at once, so it will not be difficult to find out this or that issue in English. But there are significantly fewer people who speak other European languages.

What are the traditions in South Africa in terms of tips?

The standard tip for catering is 10% of the check, but some restaurants already include this percentage in the total cost. You don't need to overpay twice, but if you find the food or service amazing, no one will mind if you leave an extra tip.

What is the attitude towards smoking and alcohol? Are there clubs and parties there?

V big cities such as Johannesburg, Cape Town, Durban and Port Elizabeth are full of clubs, bars and other entertainment venues of this kind. True, some of them require an entrance fee. You can drink alcohol from the age of 18, you cannot smoke indoors. In some restaurants, smoking is prohibited even if your table is outdoors, so it is better to check this question with the waiter or manager.

Is South Africa safe? Do I need to buy insurance?

It is necessary to buy travel insurance in any case, even if you plan to travel not to South Africa, but to good old Europe. In addition, insurance with a probability of 100% will be required at the border control when entering the country.

South Africa is generally safe. A lot of horror stories are told about Johannesburg, where banditry is really widespread, and about the province of KwaZulu-Natal, where foreigners are allegedly robbed and killed right on the road. V large cities tourists often become victims of thieves, scammers and other troubles. Basic safety rules will help you avoid all this: do not walk alone at night, always keep a mobile phone or any other means of communication with you, do not separate from the group during excursions, and so on. It is better to leave your passport, money and jewelry in the safe at the hotel. In Johannesburg, for example, it is better just not to walk in disadvantaged areas (but you just won't get there). But reasonable foresight is needed everywhere, even in Moscow.

Are there the same sockets as in Russia, or do you have to buy an adapter? Are there any problems with electricity, internet, and so on?

The mains voltage in South Africa is the same as ours (220/230 volts), but the sockets and plugs are different - three round pins instead of the usual two. So you will need an adapter anyway, which can be purchased locally.

Will my phone work there? Is it better to buy a local SIM card or use roaming?

Only a local SIM card - you will go broke on roaming! You can buy a SIM card at any shopping center. It is better to buy a prepaid SIM card with a certain number of minutes and the Internet (voice calls and Internet are paid separately), and you can top it up at any gas station or at any point of sale of SIM cards. You can buy a Goodline SIM card (this is a tourist SIM card that is easy to find in Moscow), it also works great there.

Wi-Fi can be problematic even in large five-star hotels, in many national parks There is no connection at all, so you won't be able to send a selfie with a crocodile from the meeting place.

What is the best way to get around? What about public transport? If I rent a car, what do I need to know?

From O.R. airport Tambo in Johannesburg can be reached by high-speed train, which is much better and cheaper than Moscow Aeroexpress trains. Taxis are common in cities. Tourists are generally advised to use a taxi approved by the tour operator or hotel.

Renting a car will not be a problem. Moreover, South Africa has good roads with reliable coverage and all the necessary signs road traffic, and the GPS works fine there. People who have never been to South Africa write stories about the fact that a jeep is required in South Africa. In reality, an SUV may be needed only during a trip to Lesotho - there sometimes you have to climb up the dirt road at an angle of 75 °.

Finally, long distances can be covered by domestic aircraft. Orange and Kulula are considered very decent local airlines. The rules of transportation there are the same as those of most international companies. And for an advantage they will charge you in full - "agreeing" will not work for sure.

What do you need to eat / drink? Can I drink tap water?

South Africa is a country that is completely self-sufficient in food. Probably the most famous dish in South Africa is steaks. They are huge, incredibly tasty, and you can eat them endlessly. And, of course, local wines are perfect for the steak.

You can drink water from the tap - in South Africa, in large cities, the so-called silver pipes are used in the water supply system, which involve natural disinfection of water. There is no chlorine in the water either. And in rural areas, of course, you should only use bottled water.

What is the best souvenir to bring home?

Probably the best thing that can be brought from a trip is impressions and memories of a wonderful country in the south of the African continent. If it is necessary to reinforce them with a material component, then - various souvenirs from the shell of ostrich eggs, paintings from butterfly wings (however, they are common throughout Africa, not only in South Africa), amazing local coffee, a figurine of a local idol (this is not for everybody), figurines of wild animals made of wood, beads from acacia fruits - everyone can find a souvenir to their liking.

Wrote down Arthur Gromov

South Africa has never interested me as a travel destination. Well, Australia, well, the land of the Incas in America, well, Kenya. And South Africa ...? As a child, I liked the book "Captain Rip Head" about the Boer War. Well, the line still stuck in my head: "O Transvaal, my country, you are all on fire." But he was not going to go there. Yes, and the sacramental phrase "Do not go children to Africa for a walk ..." is familiar to everyone from childhood.

However, man proposes and God disposes. The daughter married a Boer, or Afrikaner, living in Cape Town, and had to go to the wedding in the very south of South Africa. Visas were issued through a travel agency specializing in South Africa. So the Russians are going there. They issued a tourist visa, and did not go by invitation, since the South African government fears that Russians will come in large numbers to them. Nothing, the visa was given without any problems.

There are several ways to fly to Cape Town from Moscow, for example, via London, which is faster, but much more expensive, or via the Emirates. Chose the most cheap option: emirati

state-owned airline Etihat, via Abu Dhabi. Long, 20 hours there, 26 back, but only 30 thousand rubles round trip. And here we are (me, my ex-wife and Sasha, the son of my old friend, respectively, the father, mother and childhood friend of the bride) on the plane. Excellent service, feeding every 2 hours, in front of each passenger a monitor on which you can watch the flight path, watch movies, play with toys. Before the Emirates, there were many Russians in the cabin. 2 hours at the airport, transfer, and only we fly to Cape Town from Russia. This flight was long. And even an intermediate landing for 1.5 hours in Johannesburg.

But it all ends someday, and now, finally, we are at Cape Town airport. At passport control, I was somewhat confused at the words of a black customs officer “How are you?” replied "Ai em from Russia." But he was, nevertheless, admitted to South Africa, "the country behind the barbed wire," as it was called in the Soviet press during my childhood.

Anticipating the description of our route, I will note that my African son-in-law composed and organized it, and therefore I played a passive role and did not remember many places by name. But the most pleasant impressions remained. So…

Cape Town, first impressions

On the very first day upon arrival, we were taken to the ocean. Despite the sunny weather, it was rather cold, for a piercing south wind was blowing. That is, the southern one blows there directly from Antarctica. In South Africa, much the other way around, because this is the southern hemisphere. We were there in late September, early October, it's early spring for them. The sun rises there on the right, sets on the left, and shines from the north. And the north there is hot, and the south is cold. Almost the entire time of our stay in Africa it was cold - here's Africa. This feeling, perhaps, is also due to the fact that whites (and we, of course) dress there very lightly, usually in T-shirts and shorts or jeans. But blacks - they like to dress warmly: jackets, trousers and knitted hats.

It was cold on the ocean and we didn't swim. And the local kids did it with pleasure. Outwardly, the place where we were brought to get acquainted with the ocean resembles the average Mediterranean-Black Sea region - palms and conifers, a blue sea (in this case, the ocean), along the coast there is an iron and motor roads, then several rows of houses, and then high mountains rise. Probably, this is how Alexander Grin's Zurbagan should have looked.

Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point

After that we went to one of the cult local places - the cape Good Hope... An excellent road leads there, laid among the "bush", thickets of various deciduous and coniferous bushes. On the occasion of spring, everything bloomed, especially beautiful - protea or, in the local way, priti. On the way by the road we saw a flock of wild monkeys, baboons, "baboons" in Afrikaans. They go out onto the track hoping to profit from the passers-by. But it is not recommended to open windows and doors in cars - the creatures are very aggressive.

The Cape of Good Hope is the most famous southern point in Africa. But the cape itself is inexpressive, almost invisible.

Incomparably more impressive is the nearby rocky Cape Point, the “cape of the meeting” in Russian, where the Atlantic and Indian oceans meet. It is here that the Cape of Good Hope lighthouse stands; a picturesque hiking trail along the edge of the cliff leads there. And the lazy ones can get there on a red bus. There is a sign near the lighthouse that says how many kilometers to which city (Moscow is absent). Although the border of the oceans is a human invention, but here it has a concrete expression, there are warm waters of the Indian and cold - Atlantic oceans... There is fog over the Atlantic. Ahead is only the boundless ocean, and behind it is Antarctica, from where a serious cold wind is blowing. The air is clear and crystal, the vastness is immense, you are at the end of the earth.

Cape Point

Descending from Cape Point, we went to the Cape of Good Hope itself. On the way, we saw wild ostriches and 3 equally wild antelopes, which I, because of their color and myopia, took at first for lions. There is a sign "Cape of Good Hope" on the cape, around which a large number of ubiquitous Chinese tourists gathered at that moment.

In the evening we went to dinner at a restaurant on the shore of a cozy bay, fenced off from the ocean by 2 high mountains... Between the restaurant and the bay there was a wide beach of white sand, along which people walked slowly at the hour before sunset. Nobody swam - early spring. We sat indoors and ate delicious and very cheap local food. A dinner of the freshest sea, or rather, ocean products, with wine costs about 300 rubles for our money. And when the sunset painted the mountains with the last rays, I broke down and ran to take pictures. Many others did the same. Already in the dark we returned to Cape Town, admired it from above and looked at the stars. I never saw the Southern Cross.

Penguins

The next day in the morning we went to see the penguins. Penguins live there in a protected area, along which paths from boards raised above the ground are laid. South African penguins are small and black and white. They form very faithful pairs and, if one of the pair dies, then the remaining remains lonely. They feed the chicks until they are 3 years old, and until they learn to swim well, they do not let them go far into the sea, since there are many sharks there. Basically, penguins sit in pairs, raising their wings - they warm themselves. Penguins talk loudly among themselves, and sometimes fight. Among the penguins, you can sometimes see funny dassi animals, similar to marmots, but relatives of elephants, who, they say, are not averse to feasting on penguin eggs.

dassi or daman

Botanical Garden

Then we went to the botanical garden. Botanical Garden broken up near the ocean on the banks of a small river with dark brown from rotting foliage, but transparent water, like we have in the swamps. A feature of the local flora is the predominance of shrubs and the almost complete absence of large trees. The trees in this part of South Africa are either European or American pines, or Australian eucalyptus. Here, along the banks of the river, there is enough water all year round, and local trees reach a significant height. It seemed that we were in the movie "Avatar", everything around looked so unearthly and beautiful. Climbing up the river, walking now along the wooden flooring, now barefoot on the mowed lawn, we reached the end of the path that rested against small waterfall... Here, under the shade of an overhanging rock, we had a bite, washed down with a deliciously delicious South African juice from a 5-liter bottle, and went back. Visitors were sitting here and there or playing ball on the lawns. Not a single caretaker or worker. But everywhere is clean and well-groomed. This combination of neatness and pristine nature is striking. The botanical garden provides a vivid representation of the native vegetation, which, according to Wikipedia, is the most diverse on the entire earth. This is the kingdom of daisies (blue, yellow, red, common daisies, but growing on trees, etc.), aloe and similar plants and proteas. Flowers are presented separately, in the room in front of the entrance to the botanical garden.

protea or pritya

Whales

After the botanical garden, we went to the town of Germanus, to the bay, where whales give birth to cubs at this time of year. On a small boat, we first sailed not far from the coast, having caught a glimpse of a whale diving up - the males gather here. But not one more showed up, and we swam to the other side of the bay, on the way we met several fur seals. There, a few hundred meters from the shore, huge black-brown backs were constantly visible. These were females giving birth to whales. They then surfaced, then almost disappeared, then launched fountains, then raised huge fins, then beat with their tails. The whales are really huge and this is one of the biggest experiences of the entire trip.

harbor of the city of Hermanus

We stood here for a long time, and then swam back, and then the ship was surrounded and swam for a long time by dolphins. There were about 10 of them, they either jumped out of the water, then swam very close, it seemed that they could be touched, then they sailed away. Finally they left, and we swam to the pier. We were fed and watered on the way, this is included in the price of the excursion, about 3000 rubles. This was the most expensive excursion of the entire trip. Negroes and colored people served us. And in the end, the most important white man appeared from somewhere. This is typical: the most unskilled jobs are performed by blacks, not even by South African ones, but by immigrants from other African countries, local blacks are higher, and even higher are colored ones, and if problems arise, a white owner appears from behind the scenes and solves them. So on average, but we saw both a white bum and very well-dressed black people buying goods in the most expensive stores. By the way, the word "Negro" in South Africa is not offensive, because there are the countries of Nigeria and Niger. But the word kefir cannot be said, we were warned, for Kafr is a crucial word, such as "black".

This time we spent the night in a two-story guest house owned by the parents of the son-in-law, a 5-minute walk from the ocean in the large village of Pringle Bay, like our summer cottage. The parents themselves live in a one-story house in Cape Town. According to the Dutch tradition, Afrikaners consider it prestigious to live in a one-story house, since two-story houses are built by those who do not have the money for a sufficient land plot where a large one-story house can be built. After spending the night, we went to the local beach, wide, from whitest sand and strewn with wonderful shells. We were followed by the kindest dog, who really wanted to be played with. When we left, he disappeared as imperceptibly as he appeared.

The beginning of a trip to South Africa

And we drove along an excellent road along the coast of the Indian Ocean.

On the sides floated well-groomed fields with some kind of cereals, vineyards, cow, sheep and ostrich farms, man-made lakes, and in the distance were the ancient African mountains. An indescribable feeling. A combination of civilization, comfort, space and primordiality. On the way, we stopped at a store called a "gallery", where an African artist-potter sells his works: plates, bowls, jugs, mugs ... What did not sell or, perhaps, a marriage, was embedded in the paths and walls of the establishment. We liked it and bought various souvenirs.

After a while, we arrived at the aloe factory. More precisely, we stopped at a store at this factory, which sells all kinds of creams, teas and other drugs made from aloe. Actually, aloes grow there along the roads in the manner of our burdocks. But for this factory, aloe is grown on special plantations.

Safari Park

Further in the plan of our trip was a visit to the safari park. It was promised that while riding horses, we will see buffaloes (buffalo, locally), rhinos and giraffes. Lions were also announced, but somehow in passing. So we put on helmets, wrap our legs with special leggings and get on the horses. We are accompanied by a black guide, also on horseback. Considering that my riding experience is limited to one trip in my distant childhood, and the others from our company did not have much more, everything went well. The horses, however, listened not so much to us as to the guide. Following a gentle serpentine road, we climbed high into the mountains surrounding an impressive valley in which the office building of the safari park is located. We crossed the ridge and began to descend.

And then, 400 meters away, we saw two rhinos and several aristocratic giraffes. But my naughty horse Mandan wanted to chew on the herbs, and he turned away. I contented myself with the view across his back. The return trip was also interesting. We went down steeply, it was pretty scary. The horses at times started at a trot, sometimes they went into a gallop (either of their own free will, or at the secret command of the guide). And we constantly wanted to go to the wrong place. The bay Zulu was especially unbearable, striving to bite either other horses or us. Bay means red - oh, those red ones! On the way, we saw a swamp antelope and a herd of black wildebeests, which were introduced to us as "buffalo". "Where are the lions?" I asked. “The lions are on the other side of the mountains,” was the answer. There are a lot of impressions and experiences: 2 hours of riding in the African mountains is not a joke.

Mossel-bye

We spent the night in the city of Mossel-bye, which is considered the capital of the South African colored people. It's scenic resort town on the shores of a vast bay. We settled in a hotel converted from a passenger train. Each has a separate compartment, a toilet, like on a regular train, only connected to the sewer.

We had dinner at a restaurant on the beach. It looks like an ordinary canteen, only the food is very tasty and cheap. We are alone in the hall at a late hour (8 pm, out of season). And only at the exit, looking at the pictures hung on the walls, we learn that the restaurant existed in the same form already in 1895, was in 1927 and in 1939.

In the morning we got up early and walked around the city. Unusual and beautiful. Leaving, my daughter and I, without saying a word, sang: "Goodbye, goodbye, May Mosselbay!" And I said to my son-in-law: "This is the song we have composed." He replied that this song was already many years old, it was sung back in the 30s of the 20th century. It turns out that people in the same circumstances have the same thoughts.

Then we drove along the coast, then moving away from it, then driving to the mountainous coast of the ocean. Along the coast runs Railway, along which, we were told, a real steam locomotive drives and carries old wagons with tourists.

Hotel "Tree Frog"

For the night we arrived at a wonderful place called "Tree Frog". This hotel mimics a jungle bungalow house. We were promised that wild monkeys would gallop around the bungalow, but either out of season, or they had migrated somewhere, but we did not notice a single monkey. There is a two-story building on stilts in the middle of the forest and it seems that you are lost in the endless African forests, and a modern highway passes a few hundred meters away.

hotel "Tree Frog"

The owner of this place, Albert, is a German from Bavaria. When asked why he lives here, he answered in German: "Warum nicht?" ("Why not?"). And the correct German refused to offer to sit with us, drink wine, chat, because: a) he has a family and b) he needs to play an old flute donated by his grandfather, and he does this every evening.

We were not upset and went to the jacuzzi, which is also arranged on stilts in the forest about 50 meters from our house. A large bath with hot gurgling water was waiting for us, and we happily plunged our bodies, once again frozen in Africa, into it. We spent 2 hours in the jacuzzi, first in daylight, and at the end under the African stars. Back in the bungalow, they lit the fireplace and dined on grilled meat with African fruits, washed down with excellent South African wine. The evening was a success.

Elephant park

In the morning we went to a special elephant park. Elephants there are not Indian, which have long been tamed and trained in everything, but big-eared African ones that have not been domesticated. Once Hannibal went to Rome, leading African fighting elephants with him, but that was a long time ago. And when the Europeans colonized Africa, the elephants were completely wild. It was rumored that African elephants are aggressive and cannot be tamed. But in the 20th century, the Europeans brought Indian drovers to Africa and they tamed the local elephants.

When we arrived, it turned out that only I wanted to ride an elephant. The rest decided to limit themselves to communicating with elephants and feeding them. It's a bit cheaper at about R390 and lasts about 2 hours. And skiing costs 420 rand and lasts only 5-7 minutes. But I said that maybe I came to Africa just to ride an elephant, I saw elephants in the zoo, so I agree to wait 2 hours.

But when everything was paid for, the guide said that I can also join the main group, they say, do not wait for me for 2 hours. In addition to us, there were 10 more people. We were brought to a special site, fenced off from a large field by a low metal fence. Several elephants grazed in the distance. Almost nothing separated us from them, and it was a little uncomfortable. The guide talked for a long time about elephants in English, but I almost did not understand anything.

Then they brought three elephants to us, and we fed them, stroked them and led them back and forth by their trunks. The elephants turned out to be very kind and obedient. The elephant gently takes a human hand, folding a similarity of 3 fingers from the tip of the trunk. While you are leading her, she is holding her hand all the time, breathing noisily and hotly. The only inconvenience is that mucus is secreted from the trunk and stains the hand. The elephants, despite their size, walk almost silently. Upon closer inspection, the elephants revealed huge eyelashes. The elephants obediently obeyed all commands, trying to please their drivers. At the end of the performance, those who wanted to ride, and there were three of them, climbed onto the elephants from a special platform and drove in a circle, holding tightly to the drivers. There were no saddles on African elephants, and it was inconvenient to ride - they had to sit right on the protruding ridge of the animal.

Outshorne Zoo

Then we continued to move along the coast. In the city of Plettenberg, before leaving the coast and heading inland, we decided to swim in the ocean. Except for us, almost no one bathed - the water was coldish. And swimming in the ocean is not so pleasant. A powerful tidal wave constantly covers, and if you swim behind it, there may be sharks. We were reassured by saying that sharks do not like human flesh, that having bitten a person, sharks usually spit it out, that over the past 10 years only 10 people have died from sharks in South Africa. But for some reason I didn't want to be eleventh. And yet, yes, in Indian Ocean I bathed.

After that, we went inland. To do this, you need to cross the mountains, the wall facing the ocean. It's not difficult to do it on a good road, but the mountains are impressive. We drove along a serpentine road, "and the mountains rose higher and higher, and the mountains rose steeper, and the mountains go under the clouds", exactly according to K. Chukovsky's book about Aibolit. Only a good doctor, as you know, overcame the African mountains, flying over them on eagles, and we were driving a prosaic Mercedes.

Having crossed mountain range, in a few hours we reached a town with a hard-to-remember Boer name like Outshorn. There we visited the local zoo under open air... Before visiting him, we went to a cafe, where those who wished tasted ostrich and crocodile meat. I ordered a kebab. On a wooden skewer, according to local tradition, were strung pieces of ostrich and crocodile meat, layered with sweet pepper. Ostrich meat resembles a turkey, only tougher. But the crocodile is very peculiar, the meat is white, fatty and rubbery. Did not like.

entrance to the zoo

pygmy hippo

crocodile with an almost human palm

After such an exotic dinner, under the guidance of a cute "colored" girl-guide, we went to inspect the animals. Well, the zoo is also a zoo in Africa. One local peculiarity, "trick", so to speak: for a separate fee, those who wish can be put in an iron cage and lowered into the pool to the crocodiles, where he can feed them. There were none among us.

feeding crocodiles

Small Karoo Farm

From the town we went for the night to a farm located in the valley of the Small Karoo (such a semi-desert). In the spring, everything blooms in this Karoo, and it does not look like a desert at all. I did not notice the owners of the farm (and these were the descendants of the Scots who fled from the English oppression at one time). But we were greeted by good-natured dogs who were very glad to any sign of attention from our side. They say that these are snake dogs, they are merciless to snakes, and they love white people very much.

old farm

This wonderful farm, the landscape of which made me associate with Australia, was the only place in South Africa during our trip, where it was a lot of insects and it was hot. And we were not advised to leave the premises at night, because there are many poisonous snakes. But we didn't have to go anywhere - all the amenities, including the bath, are located in the room.

Wine farm

In the morning we departed for the last point of our journey, to a wine farm located on the banks of a dammed river. First, we had a small tasting, were given to taste 6 varieties of wine, red and white. My son-in-law, like a proper taster, spat the wine he tasted into a special bowl, and I, of course, drank everything. After the tasting, we bought a bottle of the wine we liked, we were given various sandwiches for a snack, and we went for a ride on the river on a small steamer. We were alone on the upper deck, and a couple of people on the lower. We spent an excellent 2 hours drinking delicious wine.

After that we returned to Cape Town, driving a total of about 1900 km.

Walking in Cape Town

We walked around Cape Town on our own a couple of times. In the area where my new relatives live, there are almost no sidewalks, but cars rarely pass. Beautiful flower beds with obscure plants are laid out near the houses. Rare passers-by, no matter white or black, smiled and said "Hello!" The life and customs of this area resemble some kind of a comfortable village.

And BikesBooking
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Safety regulations

The overall crime rate in the country is quite high, and Johannesburg is generally considered one of the most crime-prone areas in the world. However, in the main tourist areas, the environment is quite safe. All reasonable precautions should be taken with regard to both things and personal safety. The South African Police Service (SAPS) is working hard to ensure security, but areas such as Soweto, Hillbrough, Alexandra and Kettlehong in Johannesburg are not recommended to visit. Guided tours alone are downright dangerous. You should always gather company before going swimming, walking in the mountains or going on a hike. It is not recommended to travel alone in buses, fixed-route taxis and trains in the evenings.

There is a high risk of fraud when using ATMs, especially if the card is passed into the wrong hands (to pay a bill in a restaurant, for parking, etc.). Credit card fraud is very common in South Africa. The share of crimes committed by drug addicts is also high (many drugs are produced in the country, and drug addiction is considered a national disaster). The number of people infected with the immunodeficiency virus (AIDS) is high.

Travel features

In South Africa, they still use "English" washbasins - without faucets, water is mixed in a sink closed with a cork. Water charges everywhere, even in hotels, are charged by the meter.

Electricity

The mains voltage is, as a rule, 220 V, 50 Hz (with the exception of Tswane - 230-250 V and Port Elizabeth - 200/250 V). Most plugs have 3 round prongs (grounding), but there are devices with two smaller prongs. Adapters are available commercially, but not everywhere.

Smoking

Since autumn 2006, the country has been running an extensive and consistent smoking cessation program. It is considered an offense to smoke in most public places, including closer to the officially established distance from windows of houses, ventilation intakes, walkways or entrances to public buildings - a fine of 200 rand (about $ 30) is imposed for such violation. Smoking in bars and restaurants is also noticeably restricted, since the owner of the establishment, who does not protect the rights to fresh air for those who do not smoke (including the employees themselves), face a fine of up to 100 thousand rand (about $ 15 thousand). ... Smoking in public transport, it has been banned at train stations and airports for about 25 years, but certain sanctions are being introduced for smokers at bus stops or near schools.

When I was going to Africa, everyone frightened me with various infectious diseases and said that I must definitely get all kinds of vaccinations. In support of this, I came across similar information on the Internet a couple of times.There was also information of another kind.

So they wrote that you need to regularly take pills for malaria, also for yellow fever and other diseases. I checked this information and found out that vaccinations are really needed. But only if I came from a country in which some kind of disease was raging. And since we do not have such a disease, no one will demand anything. And my task is to wash my hands before eating, so as not to infect.

Malaria is a different matter. So malaria in South Africa is normal. And those who wish can take pills to save themselves. Then I began to find out in more detail and found out that these pills are strongly recommended to be taken only by children and pregnant women who come to South Africa when there is a malaria period in the country. This is usually from October to March. I personally am not pregnant and not a child, so I did not take pills, especially since I flew in April, and the pills have terrible contraindications and side effects. Yes, and they do not save from illness, but only you will be easier to endure if you get sick.

I took with me all sorts of sprays and a set of pills for different occasions. Such a standard set - from diarrhea, from the head, from poisoning, and so on. And there was no need to smear, especially since there are also pharmacies at every turn and medicines are cheaper than in Russia. If I knew I wouldn’t take so many pills, but I was a little scared.

Cape Town's water is good. It is clean and tasty. They drink it without fear. And from the tap. Hence the poor sales of mineral water, and in general it is necessary to look for it and it is expensive. It's cheaper to drink juice, or beer.

In the song, everything is really true, it is not so easy to get to Africa. It is clear that it is not as difficult as for Dr. Aibolit, but at least tiring. At first I flew two and a half hours to Frankfurt. Then twelve hours to Cape Town. If it was during the day, then of course you would watch films in English (if, of course, you knew the language), read, and eat three times. But at night all this is hard to endure. I do not like to sleep while sitting. The plane was full. Most of all were Germans, so it was not possible to capture another seat. And I didn’t sleep well for three days, so I could barely fly. And the biggest minus of South Africa is just the way, it's just not to get there, that's a shame. The cost of the ticket is not so great, if you fly for a month, you will understand how much cheaper African life is compared to ours. But we, as tourists, are already accustomed to flying to Thailand or Australia. So we will adapt and we will fly normally to Africa.

The people of Cape Town are spoiled. They have good weather. So in the summer it is rarely above thirty. This is usually twenty-five. In winter, the locals complain about the weather - it gets colder and temperatures can reach ten degrees. And the winds are strong. Sometimes, of course, it is cloudy. But in general, local African utilities can rejoice, and ours envy them - there is no heating or air conditioning, they do not need it. It turns out that Africans are saving. It is thanks to the climate that Africans can live in cans, or in kennels, which are made of plywood, tin, and so on. They can even spend the night right on the street, waiting for a stray foreign tourist. The tourist hunting season begins at six o'clock in the evening. Although, to be honest, if a tourist does not know any safety rules, then he can run into trouble during the day - South Africa is generally not a place to walk nicely and take pictures of everything around. You can read about how to behave in the country to a tourist right at the airport - do not resist if you are robbed, dutifully give everything, try to remember what the robber looks like. But the last point is somehow dubious. It is unlikely that White will be able to distinguish Black from each other. Moreover, if the robbery took place at night. I studied the poster. And I try to follow these rules.

For a start, it's generally worth practicing, because we are accustomed to coming on vacation to relax and not think about anything. And all the locals are no longer in a relaxed state. The poster also said that if you are robbed with a weapon, then these are professionals. Usually they don't kill people after being robbed. Reassured what to say. Anyway, anything can happen here, and that even relatives will have to look in the policy for an item on the evacuation of the body to their homeland at the expense of insurance.

Randas are not currency, but mWe are accustomed to the fact that currency can be bought and sold almost anywhere and at any time of the day or night, with a minimum commission and no unnecessary formalities. But in South Africa, it's different. Here everything goes like this: banks work only a couple of hours a day, in large shopping centers there are points that work at a later time, then even there you will not pass by bureaucratic procedures - moreover, some unreal percentage goes for the exchange. Also, you will be required to say everything regarding your personal data - phone number, passport, address of the hotel in which you are staying. All this takes time, so be prepared to spend some time at the exchange office. Moreover, no one is in a hurry here, which sometimes infuriates. So it turns out that you can pay up to ten euros from each exchange. The last thing you will be asked to do is sign the declaration - it says that you say that everything is correct and that you undertake to keep the checks for two years.

Yeah, at home I will allocate a special shelf for these receipts. Suddenly the local special forces will come to my house and check all the receipts I have. VYou cannot import and export rand. You can change them only if you have a certificate that you bought them. And this is where our wooden ruble comes to mind, when we only bought the dollar as a means of accumulation.

This is why it is not a currency. Rubles versus this convertible currency. But in South Africa this fact is not known and our rubles are not taken.
Here are some tips for you - just change some amount at the airport, the rate there is lower than in exchange offices in shopping centers, and even then you may be faced with the situation that there is no place to change money at all. Unofficially, of course, you can agree, but whether it is necessary - anything can happen. As for plastic cards, they work, but that's another story altogether.

The next tip - if you find a decent exchanger with a normal exchange rate, then change the entire amount that you may need here - otherwise you will pay a commission every time. And this commission is generally unrealistic - it consists of a percentage of the exchanged currency, plus a fixed payment, and you will probably be mistaken and they will give you less money than you think. And you try something and prove it to someone here.

As for ATMs, they can only be used in exceptional cases and with great care. And preferably only in large shopping centers. If the ATM card is not given away, you just need to fly and look for the one who serves the ATM, and moreover, urgently call Russia and block the card. You can actually lose your money there.

There are specialized credit card scammers here. There are even special ATMs that are part of the work of these scammers. Therefore, it is better to apply all security measures. Starting from dialing a pincode, if suddenly someone is standing behind you, and ending with a request for help in withdrawing money from the card. Anyway, do not talk to those who are of a different race. Save yourself.

I'm tired of scaring, and so I'll think about how interesting it is to write about adventures and travel in general in this very beautiful and unusual country. But first - sleep B-)